Awwa Manuals 5 Read Book [PDF]

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Please try your request again later. Why did this happen. This page appears when Google automatically detects requests coming from your computer network which appear to be in violation of the Terms of Service. The block will expire shortly after those requests stop. This traffic may have been sent by malicious software, a browser plug-in, or a script that sends automated requests. If you share your network connection, ask your administrator for help — a different computer using the same IP address may be responsible. Learn more Sometimes you may see this page if you are using advanced terms that robots are known to use, or sending requests very quickly. If your order is urgent, please contact us to arrange special delivery. Contains an Electrical Schematic. Also badged: MAS, TOS, MATOS and Zbrojovka Operating and Maintenance Manual.Parts Manual as detailed Sectional Drawings. Contains an Electrical Schematic. Although clear, this reproduction of this manual is not to out usual very high standards. Also badged as the MAS, TOS, MATOS and Zbrojovka Parts Manual as detailed Sectional Drawings. Contains an Electrical Schematic and clear reproductions of all the screwcutting charts and one showing the list of spindle speeds and the relationship to cutting speeds. Operator's Instruction and Maintenance Manual with Electrical Schematics. Main Parts as Sectional Drawings with electrical schematics and foundation plan. Operator's Instruction and Maintenance Manual. Available with English, German or CZ text. Operation, Mechanical and Electrical Manual Operation and Maintenance Manual with a separate Electrical Manual with schematics and a number of useful sectional and annotated drawings of the machine's component parts. Contains extensive details of bearing and slide adjustments, use of accessories and a comprehensive section of screwcutting data Text in Czech only. Operator's Instruction and Maintenance Manual. Parts Manual as Exploded Component Diagrams.

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Operating Instructions with an Electrical Schematic. Operating Instructions, Sectional Drawings and an Electrical Schenatic. Operator's Instruction and Maintenance Manual. Includes a copy of the maker's comprehensive and well-illustrated 103-page Sales, Specification and Accessories Catalogue Covering the FA2, FA3, FA4 and FA5 Models Parts Manual as Sectional Drawings with Electrical Schematic. The various Figures referred to in the text are found in the separate Parts Manual shown below. Parts Manual Sectional Drawings with Electrical Schematic. Operator's Manual with a Parts Manual as Sectional Drawings and Electrical Schematics. This edition is for the FA4V, but the complete base section and table, etc, is identical across the range. The text section of the manual is poor - but readable. The technical drawings are fine. Includes a high-quality, 74-page collection of detailed and well-illustrated sales and technical specification catalogues covering the FA2, FA3, FA4 and FA5 Operator's Instruction and Maintenance Manual with Parts as sectional Drawings Operator's Instruction and Maintenance Manual with Parts as Sectional Drawings. Includes Illustrations of all Accessories and their mounting systems with sectional drawings.Includes Illustrations of all Accessories and their mounting systems with sectional drawings. In German text only. The text part original manual was printed on poor-quality, grey paper using a spirit duplicator hence the quality is not all that might be desired. The parts drawings are all perfect. PLEASE NOTE: in line with their usual policy, the makers did not include a set of descriptions to match the numbered parts in the illustrations Includes a large number of very clear sectional drawings. PLEASE NOTE: in line with their general practice TOS did not, unfortunately, include in this manual a written list to match and identify the numbers on the parts drawings. Very large publication. Available separately is an Electrical Manual.

Operation Manual. A large Operation and Maintenance Manual with a Parts Manual as sectional drawings. Operator's Instruction and Maintenance Manual with Electrical Schematic. German text only. Parts Manual as useful sectional drawings with an Electrical Schematic. Operator's Instruction and Maintenance Manual with a number of useful sectional drawings and an electrical diagram. Not to our usual high standard - but readable. Operator's Instruction and Maintenance Manual with Parts as Sectional Drawings together with a Separate Electrical Manual with Schematics. ?85 Includes a copy of the maker's' Sales and Specification Catalogue. This publication contains no diagrams - so included is a Parts Manual for the W100H - a borer with what appears to have been an identical head and rear support - though with a different table arrangement. Not the best of reproductions, but still clear. Includes detailed installation and operating instructions, technical descriptions, maintenance and adjustment procedures, indexing change-gear charts, differential change-gear charts, instructions for setting change of indexing shifter, reversing of table rotation shifter,etc) tables of change-gears for cutting spur gears with elementary number of teeth, independently of feed, etc. Operator's Instruction Manual Detailed Operator's Instruction Manual with a number of useful sectional drawings and an Electrical Schematic. Operator's Instruction Manual. Two full editions are included - early and late. Includes a number of useful Sectional Drawings - but not a complete Parts Manual. Operation Manual and Parts Manual as detailed Sectional Drawings. Operation Manual and Parts as useful Sectional Drawings.Instruction Manual with Electrical Schematics and Sectional Drawings. Contains an Electrical Schematic and clear reproductions of all the screwcutting charts and one showing the list of spindle speeds and the relationship to cutting speeds.

Includes Types: FA2H, FA2V, FA2U, FA3H, FA3V, FA3U, FA4H, FA4V, FA4U, FA5H, FA5V and FA5U. Comprehensive, Detailed and well-illustrated Sales, Technical Specification and Accessories Catalogue. 36 pages. The machines allow the processing of a wide range of parts with weight of up to 8000 kg or 14000 kg (special version SU 100-150 only). The headstock can hold flange type work-pieces for overhung clamping 1250kg (SU63,80), 1600kg (SU 100-155) and 2300kg for special execution of range (SU 100-155). The machines are suitable for single-piece or small-run. The machine comprises of a horizontal lathe bed with rigid design. The guide surfaces of the bed are hardened and ground. The counter surfaces on the saddle are fitted with Turcite B sliding compound. The SUA Numeric features an automatic cycle control, which may be fitted with. The machine is suitable for mass production and also for production of. Prices are indicative only and may vary by country, with changes to the cost of raw materials and exchange rates. Click for more information Click for more information Click for more information Click for more information Click for more information Click for more information. The machining tool is most often a turning knife, drill bit, or. Accessories: chuck, bezel,Good condition, can be tried. Accessories: chuck, bezel,Spindle bore. Brampton, Ontario, Canada Click to Request Price Top Seller Lathe TOS Mod. SN63B 24? x 160? between ctrs, 3? spindle bore “. Normal wear from regular use, ways protected with synthetic paste during storage!About Us. Shipping. FAQs. About Us. Universal engine turning lathe. Yes No Please tell us more so that we can improve our website: How can we get in touch with you? (optional) Send Feedback Thank you for making Machinio better. Your feedback is greatly appreciated. It is equipped with a FAGOR control unit. This machine operates with a spindle speed range 5-1250 rpm and a turning length 3500 mm. It is.

Poland Top Seller TOS SU 125 A machine tool designed for machining objects most often with the surface of revolving solids (shafts, cones, balls, internal and external threads). Circulating diameter above the slide: 940 mm. Tip distance: 4000 mm. Spindle bore: 102 mm. Spindle diameter in front bearing: 180 mm. Cone in spindle 1:10: 120 mm. Control system: PLC. Turning diameter over bed (max): 500 mm. Turning diameter over cross slide (max): 250 mm. Maximum-turning length: 1000 mm. Spindle drilling: 56 mm. Spindle taper: Morse 6. Maximum length of the turning: 1500 mm. Turning diameter over bed (max): 400 mm. Turning diameter over cross slide (max): 220 mm. Power of the spindle: 5.5 kW. Minimum rotary speed of the spindle: 22. Brno, Czech Republic Click to Request Price TOS SS 50 Lathe Good condition TOS SS 50 Lathes manufactured in 1988. Located in USA and other countries. Click request price for more information. Report this Document Download now Save Save tos-trencin-manual.pdf For Later Tos Trencin Manual PDF Original Title: tos-trencin-manual.pdf Uploaded by Euro chef 50 (2) 50 found this document useful (2 votes) 793 views 2 pages More Save Save tos-trencin-manual.pdf For Later 50 50 found this document useful, Mark this document as useful 50 50 found this document not useful, Mark this document as not useful Embed Share Print Download now Jump to Page You are on page 1 of 2 Search inside document. I just aquired a TOS Trenchin SN40B-50B lathe and have some questions. First, does anyone know what the -50B in the model number means. Second, the manual that I got for it says that the lathe has foward and reverse, but mine seems to only run in foward-and the previous owner seemed to agree. The manual states that when the carriage lever is lifted up, the lathe will run foward-is this correct.

The lathe was set up to run foward when the handle was pushed down, when you bring it back the clutch disengages, and if you lift it up it brakes(as in puts on the brakes). I also notced that when the carrige handle is in the center locked position, the spindle will sometimes creep ever so slightly. Is the clutch and or brake worn or need adjustment. Was the previous owner and now me running the motor backwards, possibly causing the reverse to not function properly. Or do I have some strange lathe that doesn't have reverse. Third, the lathe came with a large tool post that I can't seem to find anything about. It has a couple of the wedge-type tool holders, but there seems to be parts missing-namely a way to set the tool holders height in the tool post. Also I have no tool holder for the large front quick-release part. Does anyone know anything about this toolpost or where I can find info about it. Thanks in advance for any help!The good and the bad, the 40 and 50 series lathes seems to have been one of their most common models for mid size production use, their should be lots of machinists that have quite a bit of operating time on them, the bad news is I have seen precious little information on them here and otherwise. Does the lever have the proper movement. Maybe you have some switching issues. I would think this machine has reverse. Haven't heard of that toolpost, but I have limited education thusfar, if you could borrow some other holders to see if they interchange (probably CXA size) If not and you have some odd bird it maybe better to flog what you have on ebay and pick up a popular system. Is the mount loose underneath. Sorry to not be of more help hopefully this will bump it back up top to someone who can:rolleyes:Good luck!Regards TyroneRegards Tyrone I came here because I found some posts by some people that seemed to be familar with the TOS.

I am not a machinest, but have wanted a lathe for many years and am really excited about this-it would appear that I got a really nice machine, it's just in need of a little love. Oh yeah, as for the slop, I checked the compound(?) slide( the one the tool post bolts too and is adjustable for angle) and it had a ton of slop also. So I took it apart this morning and and found a bolt missing from the lead-screw block(is that what it is called?), so I thought that was the problem. While that wasn't helping, it was not the only problem. I did find a threaded collar that holds a thrust washer against a thrust bearing at the hand wheel that had come loose, however, and this appears to be the main culprit. I will find out today, and I am hoping the problem with the cross slide is the same. I cleaned out all of the little spring-loaded ball oil ports. A few of them were so packed with chips that they were stuck open. I am trying to flush them out, but I can't seem to get them to take oil. Is there some kind of special gun I need. I have a little zoom-spout oiler right now. What kind of oil does this need. I will try to remove some covers to get a better look at it and see if it begins to make more sense. Thanks again for all your input!If it won't reverse most likely the clutch selector is worn or needing adjusting, or there is excessive play in the clutch lever linkage. It is unlikely that the clutch packs are worn out. If you really want to get parts or holders I'd recommend you watch for them on eBay, otherwise abandon it and get a standard toolpost. I'm also not sure if they still exist as a company. 4. Assuming you don't have a taper attachment fitted, there are two places the slop can come from. On the end of the leadscrew at the rear of the carriage is the thrust block, there is a thrust bearing either side and a locking nut to pull them together. That may be loose or the bearings may be shot.
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The nut is adjustable also, on the top of the cross slide you'll see two socket cap screws either side of a slotted pin with a oiler in the centre of it. Slacken one or both of the cap screws, and twist the slotted pin with a flat screwdriver to open the nut. Unless the nut is very worn the pin should turn only very slightly. Given the amount of slop you describe I'd put money on the thrust bearings are loose. If you don't have a parts book the 600 group UK can supply one. Hope some of this helps, GregorIf you do the cross feed lead screw is anchored on the taper turning attachment. On the A series machines there was a lever to disengage the reverse clutch when reverse wasn't needed. They seemed to have dropped that on the later machines, at least those sold in the UK. The spindle creep, there is a brake on these machines, adjustable at the rear, near where the clutch operating lever terminates.There are two speed ranges available-- under the cover where the change wheels are is gearbox, the cover is held on by two screws, simply swap the gears round for the alternative speed range, max 1000 in one range, max 2000 in the other. Very solid hard working machine.Yesterday I had some time and mostly solved the backlash problem-as you suggested gregormarwick the problem was with loose nuts. I took it all apart, cleaned it, re-greased it and a little locktite on the adjuster nuts should do the trick. I took some pics, if I get a chance perhaps I will post 'em-maybe it will help someone else out too. On the little slide, the missing bolt was missing because a second one will not go in. Is the lead screw block the wrong one. Also, if i tightened the one screw too much, the handle would be hard to rotate as the block got closer to the thrust bearings-as is the lead screw was bent slightly. I finally setteled for a comprimise that would give me the least amount of slop without binding the leadscrew too much.

I don't have a taper attachment(it goes on the back side of the carriage, right?) And frankly have never seen one in person and am therefore puzzled as to how it works. The machine also did not come with any other gears other than what is on iy right now-hopefully they will work for me. As for the speed changing gears, I was just reading about that in the manual and trying to figure that out. I will go and look for the cover you mentioned and see if I can figure it out. I was going over the clutch and brake drawings and descriptions again and will try to look at those too. My books drawings are a little confusing, as the they are kinda like exploded views, but not quite and the placement of a part on the page isn't always where it seems to go. Great if you already know all about the function of the parts but not too helpful in telling a dummy like me what the part really does. Thanks again for all of your input!Grease captures metal chips which will prematurely wear whatever it is you're trying to lubricate.I only greased one non-contact surface, and the bearings and gears of the slides, not the ways, which I coated in way oil, so hopefully I'll be OK. But now, has any one had to adjust the clutches on one of these. I got the cover off, and found how the adjustment works, but I still couldn't get it to work right. It just seems that the shift fork runs out of room. So I took the entire assembely out of the machine, and took the reverse clutch pack apart. It all appears to be there, but it just does not seem to be able to create tension like the foward side does. I'm wondering now if the little levers that are depressed by the shift collar and then press on the clutch pack are some how worn or bent, but I have no way of knowing what they should look like. It seems that there are rounded cross grooves for these levers to ride in on the clutch shaft, but I don't THINK they are touching.

Man, oh man, I wish I could just talk to someone who has worked on one of these before so they could tell me what to look for. Thanks again!If you could scan and post the relevant parts diagrams it would probably be enough that I could help you. As I said before, these are my father's machines and I don't work there anymore so I can't check myself. Cheers, GregorI believe I have now figured out all of the problems, but I still have to fix the reverse. As I said, the slop in the slides was mainly due to loose thrust bearings-those were fairly easy fixes. As for the reverse issue, after taking apart the clutch shaft and looking at it real close, I determined that at some point someone put the levers that put pressure on the clutches on wrong. As a result, they were never capable of exerting pressure on the clutch pack, and it seems to have worn deep groves into the levers as well. I put the pack back togather the correct way and got reverse working, but it has since quit working, I suspect that when disengaged, the levers were able to fall out of their place and get hung up due to these grooves. I will try next to post a few pics so that if anyone else has a similar problem they may benifit from my little ordeal. Also, I had a hard time finding anyone who knew anything about these and could confirm my suspisions about how the parts worked and were supposed to be installed-as well as finding parts. I did find a gentleman who works for a place called Modern Tool ( ) in the service department who was VERY helpful. He had a very good working knowledge of these machines, and told me some things to try, some things to look out for, and some tips for helping it out. I am sorry to say that I am horrible with names and can't remember his, but would like to thank him very much. Also they can order parts for this machine. And as far as parts go, I found a guy in N.J. who I purchased a manual off of e-Bay from for this machine.

( ) His name is Gary and he was most helpful as well, AND he has a lot of common parts for this machine in stock.This is on the back of the machine, and there is a cap with 4 bolts that cover this and act as the thrust block. At the end of the lead screw shown is where you tighten the jam nuts to adjust the bearings. Here is the clutch shaft taken apart-this is all the parts in pretty much exploded form except for the actual shaft, and the drive pulley and it's spacer, key, and retaining hardware.The bottom row is the foward section. These bearings are all light press fit to the shaft and removing a few of them is alittle tricky. The parts go onto the shaft in order from top left to top right, then bottom right to bottom left.Regards Tyrone.You can see the levers are perched on the outside lip of the ring that presses against the clutches, and are held there by the grooves cut into them. This is wrong, and holds the lever fingers away from the shaft, which is their fulcrum point. The shaft has radiused slots cut across it to recieve the rounded elbows of the levers, and when held off the shaft they cannot apply presseure to the clutches. Here is what the levers SHOULD look like when installed. Notice they are inside the lip of that ring, which both holds that ring centered and keeps the levers in contention with their piviot points on the clutch shaft. Here is what the reverse side of the clutch shaft looks like when you press the bearings and reverse gear back over the clutch pack. From left to right you will see on the shaft: foward gear clutch adjuster; shift collar; reverse gear clutch adjuster; inner and outer clutch discs nested inside of the reverse gear; and the reverse gear. So in a nut shell that is how the clutch shaft goes togather.

My only problem now is that I don't have reverse(need to get some new parts) and I did not set the foward clutches tight enough-which is a bummer, 'cause to adjust them you have to drain the oil and remove the back lower cover off of the machine, and I dont know how to adjust them to the proper tension without running the machine. Does anyone know the procedure to adjust these. That would be a grat help!I'm sorry, I didn't register who got it, but I think it was in the TOS thread on General New, the post was a day or two ago.If you have it, please send me a email. The other guy you talk about, I believe used to work for him. I've got the manual from him. It does explain the clutch issue. I had burnt mine up on a heavy rev. cut. purpled the housing, shaft. If your electric motor is reveresed.AS far as adjusting.One thing to watch, if the clutch is too tight, it will drag the opposite clutch, and heat up. IE, forward too tight, run it in rev.Does anyone know the procedure to adjust these. That would be a grat help! Practical Machinist is the easiest way to learn new techniques, get answers quickly and discuss common challenges with your peers. Register for the world?s largest manufacturing technology forum for free today to stay in the know. Learn more about us. All rights reserved. Register today. To learn more, please refer to the cookie policy. In case of sale of your personal information, you may opt out by sending us an email via our Contact Us page. To find out more about the categories of personal information collected and the purposes for which such information will be used, please refer to our privacy policy. You accept the use of cookies or other identifiers by closing or dismissing this notice, by scrolling this page, by clicking a link or button or by continuing to browse otherwise. I just ran across a TOS 16 x 60 which looks to be very lightly used.

It has no gap, and the bore is on the small side, but the asking price (low four figures) is hard to ignore. It has the basic tooling. Two rests, two chucks, a tool post, and some other things I can't identify but have asked the seller about. Is there any reason to avoid these things. I know I would probably have to buy new parts if anything went bad, and they probably wouldn't be cheap.And if I got a quality Czech lathe, Milacron might not have to stomp all my PM threads, so that would be a plus. I appreciate the sludge info. That would never have occurred to me. I don't know how coolant would get in there. How strange.It has shiny, original-looking paint on it, but it looks like an old design. It has a weird rounded headstock and a cast base a lot like an old Sheldon or South Bend. It's not a collection of metal boxes like a late-model lathe.Want to feed this way. Push the lever that way. After that, every other lathes feed and direction of feed lever system, seemed like a god damn Rube Goldberg set up! JeffHard to believe any 16 x 60 in that condition would go for ?1000.Alec Vallance who owns Budget Machinery has been dealing with TOS for a long time and spends a lot of time out there. He will be amused to hear what you think.He will be amused to hear what you think. Something like late 1970's-1990 vintage. JeffLooked like this. The dials for the cross slide, compound, and apron were top drawer. I modified the knee way wipers from a Bridgeport and fitted them to the front of the cross slide. There was a hardened shaft for an idler gear that was not crossdrilled for lube. Had to turn the shaft, cross drill it, and replace the gear. The motor was 50Hz and would not sustain a heavy cut. Then it would take.250 a side without a snit. Turn the oil filter at the back of the headstock. Make sure the motor direction is correct or the oil pump will not suppy oil to the bearings. The end rear upper cover was removed by three screws.

Pull the exposed cover plate and exchange positions of the two gears. The lathe would then hit top speed range that included 2000 rpm. There was a setup for colletts but we did not have that. Did not like the coolant sump. Started to rust out. Welded that and coated the inside of the tank. The gears in the headstock looked fantastic, even more so when compared to the Peoples Republic of China Select lathes the shop also had.Always hard to turn up something that looks like a bargain, but I felt that way when I bought my current lathe, and I got burned pretty good.Needs to be evaluated. In good shape, can run forever. In bad shape - you might need not only bearings but a new spindle. Otherwise it?s usually nice lathes of very good quality, when it was new. But that was most likely 50-60 tears ago.Practical Machinist is the easiest way to learn new techniques, get answers quickly and discuss common challenges with your peers. Of the TOS machine i found over 100 pages of good information, including a bill of sale, various manuals, lists with the bearings used, pictures of various attachments, electrical schematics, diagrams of the gearbox and oiling system etc etc. A list of the current site content: If you have an available manual or brochure interesting and very old machines, send it to me and I will build it here, in return I can get something else.It sure gave me very valuable information for the new machine. I searched but counldn't find it.I need to buy the electric maintenance manual for this machine. Can you tell me where I can buy it?Practical Machinist is the easiest way to learn new techniques, get answers quickly and discuss common challenges with your peers. Can anyone give any feedback from experience. Thanks, Scott HamiltonThe Tos has plenty of heft and reserve strength in that size. (I have run both machines) If you are not planning to take haevy cuts on large work, then the Clausing or the Harrison are all right.

You will, however, really see the difference when the going gets tough.Tos makes a decent lathe, but parts are thru a single importer. The SN50 is probably what you are looking at. I'd rate it equal to an Enlish made colchester and better than a chinese colchester( just because I hate chinese machinery). If you had a chance to buy a manual Mori Seiki, Monarch or Okuma in that size range I'd rate all of them better.Buy the tosThe clutch is barely adequate at those diameters and it isn't going to get better with age!One case from a school shop, a hollow chisel mortiser, was actually wired so it ran backwards. smtThe only thing that I hate is that the carriage feed handle is on the wrong side. The joystick feed look go though. It also seems that the TOS machines are cheaper than the Clausing. Is this because of a name thing. Also, what about spindle through hole diameter. Thanks, ScottBig hole means big bearings. The lathe has other issues but that spindle hole has insured that it's here to stay. A minor trade off.What i can tell you is that the drive just wouldnt die,the thermoswitch was cranked up to the point our electrician couldnt believe the drive survived that for years, and when the machine was put away (2003)the drive still was ok, aswell as the spindle gearbox. Materials were most of the times SS and super alloys like inco-allys and hastelloy. It was great for that becuase it had from 10 rpm and its very strong in the low gears. The clutch had to be repaired once every 5 years becuase its what the machine uses as its brake. The x axis lead screw renewed every 2 years, x spindle every 5-10 years. Basicly a nice machine and with some maintenance and plenty oil it will hold tolerances pretty ok.It was stored outside for 3 New England years, got rained on, snowed in, tipped over by city plow and repeatedly got pushed on it's side by the same snowplow over 30' from the original location etc. etc. etc.