Boxster Tiptronic To Manual Conversion

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The following definitely needs to be replaced:- Gearbox, gearshift, gearshift cover, steering wheel- Instrument dashboard (get rid of the tip indicators)- Steering wheel (without tip buttons)What I'm not too sure are:- ECU. Can I just disconnect the tip controller from the ECU and be done with it or do I need a manual Boxster S ECU?- Suspension arms?- Any other things?I've also read in a few places that the Boxster S uses the same gearbox as the 996. So can I also get the 996 transmission unit and bolt it onto my car along with the other Boxster specific parts above?I'm seriously exploring this option as there're simply no manual Boxster S in my country so buying a manual is not an option for me. Join PCA to participate in our community. Started after have the front nose area removed and repainted. All Rights Reserved. Where could I find the manual trans. How much would I get for a complete tiptronic setup (including engine, steering wheel, wiring, all computers, etc.) and how much would the manual trans cost. Also, could anyone tell me what I could get for a 97 Boxster engine, computer and wiring. How hard would it be to find a buyer? ThanksNot to mention the suspension settings etc. Finding all those things, buying them and installing them is a pretty monumental task. Not impossible, but with the dirth of excellent Boxsters out there, your time and money are better spent searching for and buying one with a factory conversion (as in -- its a factory manual car ) good luck,Switching out everything necessary is probably a job no one's tackled as for instance you didn't begin to mention things like the shift linkage, wiring harness, sealing off transmission cooling lines, etc. Not to mention the probability that things invariably come up that are unexpected in such a swap and require fabrication. My guess is it would end up costing more than what I paid for my 2000S (manual).
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Many years ago when I was a relatively new pro mechanic, I tried such a conversion on a Ford van (incredibly easy to work on compared to any Porsche I later worked on), and even consulting a relative guru on American hardware I decided to simply sell the Ford rather than go crazy trying to make things work. In my experience, most cars' chassis are subtly different as to pick up points from auto to manual because the stress between the bell housings and motors of the two types of trannies are totally different. With an automatic torque is transferred via a fluid coupling, whereas with a manual it's through a friction plate, so even if you somehow made it work; and everything bolted right up, it's still possible that down the road bolts might break or fatigue cracks in chassis or components could develop from even the slightest misalignment. Jack. Registration is free here Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free, so join up today for full access to the site and benefit from latest member offers. The M3 is more suitable with its SMG boxSo Im trying to work out all possibilities, before I launch into this.Yes it's brilliant on track or when you're really pushing on, but for normal road use, it's a pig. In the time I had it, I did more kangaroo starts than 100 learners put together. It's down to the fly-by-wire throttle sensitivity and there's nothing you can do to prevent it. Plus, you have to lift off the throttle on every change to get rid of the jerks.Any word, phrase or graphic that in any way resembles anything to do with the Porsche name or organisation are registered trademarks of Porsche Automobil Holdings SE and Dr. Ing.h.c.F. Porsche AG. The book contains 312 pages of full color projects detailing everything from performance mods to changing your brake pads. The book is currently available and in stock now. See The Official Book Website for more details. Click here to order!
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As Boxsters get more and more affordable, a growing number of owners are choosing to upgrade the engine in their Boxster with a bigger and more powerful unit from one of Carreras. The Boxster engine and the Carrera engine are almost exact the same: the Carrera is basically just a larger displacement version of the Boxster engine. As a result of these similarities, the conversion process is relatively easy to perform, and is a very rewarding project for the do-it-yourselfer. One of the toughest aspects of performing an engine conversion on the Boxster is figuring out which engines will fit into which chassis. There has been no definitive resource detailing this, so I decided to compile the information here. Keep in mind that this is only an overview, and some additional research may be needed when installing an engine into your particular chassis. Information on these conversions is always evolving: be sure to check out the 101Projects.com website for updates on the latest conversion swap techniques. I realize that an ideal engine swap would increase the displacement of the engine and increase power. However, it may be the case that you have a Boxster with a blown engine, and you find a used engine from a different year that may also fit. All of the swaps require a remapping of computer program inside the DME. DME is short for Digital Motor Electronics and is the computer brain that controls the ignition and fuel injection system for the engine. The software that controls the DME is called Motronic, and each engine displacement has it's own map: a set of instructions that tell the computer how to drive the engine. When performing a swap, you need to upgrade your map, either by using the factory PST-2 programming tool, or by using an aftermarket software company like Softronic (see Pelican Technical Article: Installing Performance DME Map Software ). Boxster 1997-99 (2.
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5L) In 2003, Porsche switched to a vane-cell adjuster mechanism to control the variable camshaft timing, and this system requires the later DME running Motronic version 7.8. Unless you upgrade the car to use the later DME (very difficult), you cannot use any 2002 or later 996 Carrera engine or any 2003 or later Boxster engine. You can swap in any replacement 2.5L engine from 1997-99 without having to remap the DME. When installing an engine into one of these early cars, you need to use a cable-driven throttle body and corresponding crossover tube that matches that engine. (I.E. use the cable-driven throttle body from a 1999 996 Carrera when installing a 3.4 engine: the standard 2.5L throttle body is too small). The Boxster cable attaches directly to the 996 throttle body with no modifications necessary. If you have one of these cars, you might need to purchase a new DME and matching immobilizer to go along with it. Immobilizer codes for these early cars are not stored in the Porsche dealer information system, so there's no way of linking the existing immobilizer to a new DME. Don't buy a 1997 if you are definitely planning on doing an upgrade as you might get stuck with one of these non-programmable DMEs. You need to install a late-model DME and run Motronic 7.8 in order to control the variable valve lift properly. It is possible to run a piggyback computer that independently controls the variable valve lift, but this solution is not ideal and is complex to implement. When you reflash your 5.2.2 DME to control the new engine, you also need to add some wires to the DME harness. The resonance flap is controlled by a solenoid switch that then applies vacuum to the flapper. You wire this solenoid by running one wire to a 12V source and the other wire to pin 59 on the DME (the DME controls the valve with a switchable ground).
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In 2003, Porsche switched to a vane-cell adjuster mechanism to control the variable camshaft timing, and this system requires the later DME running Motronic 7.8. Unless you upgrade the car to use the later DME (very difficult), you cannot use any 2002 or later 996 Carrera engine or any 2003 or later Boxster engine. You can swap in any replacement engine of the same displacement from 2000-02 without having to remap the DME. (I.E. a 2000 2.7L Boxster with a blown motor can accept a 2002 2.7L engine with no remapping needed). Installation of a 3.2 Boxster 'S' engine would be an easy installation, but would require an updated map for the DME. When installing an engine into one of these cars, you need to use an electronic throttle body and corresponding crossover tube that matches that engine. (I.E. use the electronic throttle body from a 2000 or later 996 Carrera when installing a 3.4 engine).You need to run Motronic 7.8 in order to control the variable valve lift properly. It is possible to run a piggyback computer that independently controls the variable valve lift, but this solution is not ideal and is complex to implement. The 2001 cars still have the 7.2 DME installed, but most of the other systems of the car were upgraded in anticipation of moving towards the 2002 CAN bus system that integrates various electronic systems on the car. With the exception of the anti-lock braking system, the proper CAN bus systems are integrated into the 2001 chassis and allow the easy installation of the later 7.8 DME. As a result, you can install any 1997-08 Boxster or 996 Carrera motor into these cars without too much difficulty. You can swap in any replacement engine of the same displacement from 2000-02 without having to remap the DME. (for example, a 2001 3.2L Boxster with a blown motor can accept a 2002 3.2L engine with no remapping needed).
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When installing an engine into one of these cars, you need to use an electronic throttle body and corresponding crossover tube that matches that engine. (I.E. use the electronic throttle body from a 2000 or later 996 Carrera when installing a 3.4 engine). All of the systems on the car should work normally with one exception: the cruise control will not work properly with the later 7.8 DME unless you upgrade your ABS system as well (swap out the ABS controller and connector). As a result, if you wish to install a 3.4L Carrera 996 engine, you will need a custom DME remap from a third party vendor like Softronic (see Pelican Technical Article: Installing Performance DME Map Software ). You can swap in any replacement engine of the same displacement from 2000-02 without having to remap the DME. (I.E. a 2002 Boxster 2.7L with a blown motor can accept a 2000 2.7L engine with no remapping needed).You may need to upgrade some of the components of the system to the later 997 specification in order to achieve proper operation of the system with your new engine. The Carrera 996 had Variocam Plus since the introduction of the 3.6L engine in 2002. The 7.8 DME used in the 2003-06 Boxster didn't control variable valve lift, and there are no pins or wires in the engine harness to control the mechanism. Therefore, you need to add the wires into the engine harness when performing this installation. Pins A1 on both valve lift controllers connect to a 12V source in the harness: use the 12V supply for the variable valve timing solenoid. Pins A2 on the controllers connect to DME On 1997-01 cars, the fuel was pumped from the tank to the engine and back in a circulating pattern. In 2002, the return line back to the tank was eliminated. When you install a non-return fuel system engine into a return system chassis, there are two different options you can take.
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The first option is to swap out the fuel pump and sending unit with one from a 2003 or later Boxster and use the system as a non-return system. In this scenario, you would use the existing fuel rails from the non-return engine. For the second option, you can use the return system fuel rails and injectors and simply disconnect the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator. The base pressure for the return fuel system without the vacuum hooked up is the same as the fixed fuel pressure on the non-return systems. This second option is the least expensive of the two, but the better solution is the first option, as you can then run the later-style EV6 fuel injectors as they were intended to be run with your new engine. Vacuum Pump - Starting in 2005, the Boxster is equipped with a vacuum pump that is powered off of the camshaft. This pump was added in order to provide the engine a more constant source of vacuum, which would be independent of the throttle position and other environmental conditions. When installing one of these vacuum-pump equipped engines into an earlier car, simply hook up the vacuum supply for the brake booster, and the secondary plenum resonance valve to this vacuum source. Engine Oil Dip Stick - 2005 and later Boxsters have no dipstick. Instead the oil level is monitored electronically. When installing one of the later-style M96 motors into an early car, there is typically a black plastic plug that covers the dipstick hole: install your old dipstick into this location. On the M97 motors, there is no mounting boss for the dipstick, so you will have to rely on the instrument gauge. In particular, the biggest hurdles are encountered when installing a 3-chain vane cell engine into an early car. The 3-chain engines have a different style casting round the end of the cylinder heads. This can be overcome if you use the parts from a 3-chain motor when installing the engine into an earlier chassis (power steering supply and return lines).
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However, I've archived all of the photos on the book's official website 101Projects.com, so I advise you to point your computer there and browse through them so that you can learn more about the process and what's required to perform the swap. Keep in mind that I installed a 1999 3.4 factory rebuilt engine into a 2000 Boxster chassis. Your particular car and engine combination will most likely be different and will probably have some differences that are not captured here in these photos. The Boxster discussion forums on the PelicanParts.com website are an excellent place to ask specific questions regarding your particular installation: I'm there answering questions almost every day. These large, heavy muffler brackets need to be removed from both sides of the engine: they are attached with bolts, three of which are shown by the green arrows. This would probably be a good time to replace the seals that mate the aluminum intake manifold to the engine case. It's also a wise idea to stuff a few paper towels in the open intake pipes when you've reattached the manifold, just to make sure you don't drop any screws or washers down there while working on the engine. You will not be using the smaller coolant hoses with the 996 air-oil separator: you can simply leave these small ports open or place some small plastic plugs on them. However, you need to remove it from the engine and then reinstall it later on in the opposite direction. This is so the throttle body will face the rear of the car. I suggest that you take many photos as you remove the manifold, as the routing of the vacuum hoses can be tricky to decipher when you're reassembling the manifold back onto the engine. Also be sure that the intake boots with the small vacuum ports (green arrow) are located on either side of the throttle body and point downwards in the manner shown. The intake manifold is attached to the aluminum manifold via a number of small torx bolts (inset photo).
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Follow the diagram here when replumbing your engine. Fuel rail Intake rubber sleeve with vacuum port (installed on right side of throttle body) Fuel pressure regulator on fuel rail Air injection pump valve Electronic vacuum solenoid valve for air injection pump valve Vacuum reservoir 4-way vacuum tee Vacuum check valve (black side points towards the manifold) 3-way vacuum tee (one side is plugged) Electronic vacuum solenoid valve for resonance flap valve Resonance flap valve Intake rubber sleeve with vacuum port (installed on left side of throttle body) Unplug all of the electrical connections from the various components and then pull it off of the engine. The Boxster harness is very similar, but it plugs directly into the DME in the rear trunk, instead of a set of connectors in the engine compartment like the 996. I recommend that you use the starter harness from the 996 which is longer than the Boxster harness. I found that the junction box was a bit in the way on my installation, and I found that I had more clearance if I turned it around (see next photo). The inset photo shows the starter switch connection, which must be attached properly to the starter terminal. The inset photo in the upper right shows the original junction box attached to the top of the Boxster engine. When installing the engine into the car, I actually found that the junction box had the potential to interfere with the resonance flapper valve, so I turned it around (inset lower right), and also had to add a few washers underneath (inset, upper left). The Carrera 996 engine uses a combination unit that senses pressure and also includes a low-pressure switch as well. The unit needs to be moved from one side of the 996 engine to the other side (the unit is installed on the right side of the engine when it is installed in the Boxster). Remove the plug from one side of the engine, and then swap places with the oil pressure sending unit as shown. Use new sealing rings to guard against oil leaks.
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Grab the sender by the base using a wrench: don't grab it by the canister, otherwise you may damage the unit and cause it to leak. In order to hook it up to your Boxster harness, install a spade tab on the unit if it doesn't already have one (shown in the upper inset photo). Even though the Boxster doesn't have a gauge in the dash to monitor oil pressure, you should utilize the 996 sender in case you ever decide to upgrade to the 996 gauge cluster (see Pelican Technical Article: 996 Gauge Cluster Upgrade ). The photo shows the mounting bolt for the oil filler tube (yellow arrow), and the dipstick (green arrow): install them as shown in the inset photos, and use new seals. Inspect the oil filler tube for cracks prior to installation: these can cause vacuum leaks that can affect engine performance. The font water pipe connections are different on the two engines: the inset photo shows the 996 parts that need to swapped out for the Boxster parts. Swap the 996 part shown by the green arrow with the cap (yellow arrow) from your Boxster engine. Swap the 996 part shown by the orange arrow with the pipe connector (blue arrow) from the Boxster engine. Use new gaskets to seal these two parts to the engine. Begin by removing the idler pulley that blocks access to the lower bolt (yellow arrow and inset photo). Then, remove the cap by removing the bolts. The green arrow in the inset photo shows where it mounts to the engine: use a new gasket when transferring over the Boxster piece. Inspect the radiator hose that mounts to the Boxster piece as well, and replace it if it looks old. Don't forget to reinstall the idler pulley back onto its boss (purple arrow) when you are finished. Although you can get by with three, I don't necessarily recommend it, especially when installing a higher power engine.

If your 996 Carrera engine does not have this fourth engine mounting boss (yellow arrow), then you need to remove the oil pump and housing from your Boxster engine and transfer it over to your 996 engine. If your original Boxster engine also doesn't have this fourth mounting boss, then I recommend you purchase the later-style oil pump with the boss integrated within the housing. Therefore you need to remove the studs from the front of the engine with a good quality stud remover (see inset photo). The yellow arrow in the main photo shows the fourth boss used for the engine mount. On my 1999 3.4 996 engine, this fourth boss was already installed, because this was a brand new Porsche factory rebuilt motor that had all of the later upgrades installed on it. I recommend removing the mount, mating it to the other half, and then installing it after the engine has been positioned into the car (see Pelican Technical Article: Replacing Motor Mounts ). I recommend doing it over several weeks: plan on spending an hour or two a night carefully cleaning up parts and swapping them over from the old engine. Even though I was writing this book and taking photos at the same time, I found it took me a lot longer than I expected to prep the engine. A glass of wine helps, and the oil cooler makes for a nice wine glass stand! The return line, shown here, can be somewhat difficult to remove. Using a wrench, carefully press in on the red plastic tab shown by the green arrow, and pull out the line from the rear. Use caution: if you damage the red connector, then you will need to replace the whole rear pump reservoir, which is not an easy task. Disconnect the line and then install the existing one from your donor Boxster engine. The pressure line is attached with a typical brake line-style fitting (inset photo). Use a flare-nut wrench (not shown) to remove the line to avoid damaging the fitting. Be sure to transfer over the proper mounting brackets for the lines as well (purple arrows).

Remove it from the motor by loosening up the locking dial shown by the yellow arrow. Don't install the Boxster unit just yet: leave it off until the engine is installed into the car. It's a smart idea to replace the o-ring that mates the reservoir with the pump at this time. Shown here are some very nice looking stainless steel, large-diameter headers that match the original 3.4L exhaust system. Although I installed these with the engine on the stand, I ended up using a high performance Fabspeed exhaust instead in the final assembly (see Pelican Technical Article: Installing a Performance Exhaust System ). Make sure that you use a new exhaust gasket (inset photo), and also use the proper exhaust hardware (blue arrow). I recommend only using Genuine Porsche or OEM Bosch sensors due to a problem with splicing in connectors: see Project 19 for more details. The valve is the same on the Boxster and 996 engines, but you need to transfer over the s-shaped hose from the Boxster engine to your 996 engine. You need to install the hose first, and then install the manifold, snaking the hose through the opening as shown. When the engine is installed in the car, connect this hose to the air pump located on the right side of the Boxster engine compartment. As a result, you may have a difficult time fitting your air intake tube around it. If you do, then the solution is to swap it out with the shorter Boxster oil cooler (inset photo). However, I would keep the 996 one in place if at all possible, as more cooling is definitely better. For the purposes of engine installation into the Boxster, I recommend that you point this valve up as high as it can go (inset photo), and also keep all of the intake tube connections loose so that you can rotate both the valve and the throttle body during the engine installation. Two of the rubber boots will have plugs for the vacuum lines. Install and point them downwards as shown to ease installation (red arrow).

As you can see, the tube slightly sticks out of the boot as shown by the purple arrow). The inset photo shows the inside of the resonance flapper valve when it's fully opened. When the engine is installed in the car, you need to make sure that this valve has full freedom of motion and is not constrained by any hoses or wires. The crossover piece (purple arrow) where the throttle body mounts is different for the cable or electronic throttle bodies, so you need to obtain and use the proper one for your car. For the electronic throttle body, I was able to flip the crossover piece around (see the next photos). If you have a 1997-99 Boxster with the cable-driven throttle body, you will need to install the throttle body in its standard position. In addition, you will need to use the stock Boxster air-oil separator connection piece and plug the tank vent hose into the nipple on the throttle body. I replaced this with the crossover tube that is used with the electronic throttle body, and I installed it 180 degrees from normal in order to ease the connection to the air-oil separator (see Figure 37 ). The inset photo shows the engine compartment temperature sensor, which should be mounted on the manifold that is located on the right side of the engine compartment (when you flip around the 996 manifold, it should be on the correct side). For installation in the Boxster, I removed the crossover tube, flipped it over and then fabricated a simple connecting piece from an angled radiator hose I found at my local auto parts store (inset photo). I used the two connector pieces from the original plastic, semi-flexible air-oil separator hose used on the Boxster. The stock Boxster air-oil separator hose almost fit, but it was slightly cocked at an angle, which would have created a vacuum leak. The green arrow points to the stock Boxster air-oil separator connection tube, which doesn't quite fit: a custom piece had to be fabricated (see Photo 35 and Figure 37 ).

The inset photo shows the mounting point for the throttle body: use a new rubber gasket to prevent any vacuum leaks. The green arrow shows the connector to the crossover pipe, the yellow arrow shows the connector to the air-oil separator unit. The red arrow points to the gas tank vent hose which connects to the valve shown in the next photo ( Figure 38 ). The vent tube hose (green arrow) leads back to a small port on the throttle body (see next photo). You need to make sure that you properly position and secure the vent valve prior to installing the engine, as it's very difficult to reach under the manifold with the engine installed in the car. You will need to peel back the insulation on the wire harness and separate out the wires (blue arrow - for the engine compartment temperature sensor in this case). Use some high-quality electrical tape to rewrap the wires that are exposed (inset photo). I also used some very small zip ties to keep the harness together, just in case the electrical tape started to lose its stickiness at some time in the future. Again, peel back the insulation (orange arrow), separate the wires (purple arrow), and then rewrap the harness with high-quality electrical tape. At this time, I also found it very useful to dig out my label printer and make some labels for each of the wires on the harness. This helps with routing and the reassembly process. The 996 has different attachment and holding points for the harnesses, so use a generous amount of plastic zip ties to secure it in place. Don't forget to attach the very important ground points for the harness (inset photo, lower left). Also, take care when attaching the alternator harness: messing this up can literally cause a meltdown when you reconnect the battery. While the process of adapting the fuel rails to the 996 engine is not difficult, there are several paths you can take.

The path I chose here seemed to be the least complicated at the time, but as I write about it, it would seem there might be an easier solution: I just haven't figured it out quite yet (check the 101 Projects website for additional suggestions on how to handle the fuel rails). The first step I took was to completely remove the fuel rails from the 996 engine. This is accomplished by removing the bolts that hold the rails to the manifold and pulling both the rails and injectors from the engine. The inset photo shows the 996 injectors and rails removed. The red arrow points to the return line connection for the 996 engine. In order to use the Boxster rails with the 996 manifold, you would need to grind off of the mounting tabs on the Boxster rails, and then reweld them into the proper position for the 996 engine. I'm not a huge fan of welding fuel rails, so I decided I didn't care for this approach. Instead I modified the 996 rails and the chassis Boxster fuel lines instead.When installing the engine into your engine bay, be sure that you confirm that the fuel hose is not rubbing on any other items, or is coming in contact with any component that may cause it to wear. After installing the engine in the car, I went back and covered the fuel hose with a hard plastic sheath to protect it from any rubbing or vibration in the engine compartment. I used the flexible plastic conduit material that you commonly use to bundle and protect electrical wires automotive applications (upper inset photo). The lower inset photo shows the 8x13mm high pressure BMW fuel hose that I used to replumb the fuel lines. Then I attached some of my own high pressure fuel line to the barb and clamped it with a high quality German hose clamp. This line I ran across the top of the engine to the opposite side, and then down to the fuel line that runs down the center tunnel of the car.