Boxxer Service Manual 2010

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Copy and paste the HTML code below: Forks have been serviced. New seals, oil change and so on. When my damper was out of the fork, the knob markings are not lining up with what the fork is doing. I'll be riding and the fork will suddenly become solid as if I were to turn the knob all the way to the right. So I keep playing with it. To get it fully opened (softest) i'm about 4-5 clicks in turned to the right. I tried to explain this the best I can. Anyone else having this problem? Have a good read of the SRAM service guide it really is quite good. I'm about to start doing my own servicing, starting with the basic oil and seals. I'M assuming the only oil I should see is the 10 and 40ml from the lowers, as the other 239 is contained in the mission control yes been a closed system? I would recommend downloading the appropriate sram guide and follow that as well. Just trying to find one for the team so I don't come across anything surprising with the additional internals. I'll keep looking around. Cheers. Maybe when I get the hang of it ill do one myself. I've checked three times everything and did not see any mistake, unless this all should be so (though I doubt it). THANKS ! Just wondering if the oil volumes and the measuring from the top of the stanchion to the top of the oil bit is the same for both 32mm and 35mm Boxxers If you look on the SRAM website all the info is there.Hope this helps. The only hiccup I came across was when it said to fill the rebound stanchion up with 290mm of oil and then measure from the top of the stanchion to the top of the oil and it should measure 105mm. Mine measured around 125mm i think!!! so i just added more oil to make it 105mm.was this a good move? Pff and the race season is only 4 weeks away. Thanks again!:-) cheers Just my rebound doesn't work as before, it's a bit slow. Any suggestions? If so then insert an allen key into the bottom of the rebound damper and check its rotation if it is not turning then a strip down will be reqd.
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As a rule of thumb I tend to do a full service once a year and a lower leg service every 5 uplift days and as a result fork and stanchions are as new and super smooth. Hope this is of some help. Cheers! For the oil I tend to use either Silkolene or Shell Gemini. Hope this helps. Before following this guide, make sure you have the advised tool, and take care when disassembling, SouthernDownhill is not responsible for you causing any damage to your own forks, if you follow these correctly you should have a set of forks that feel like new, for longer. The red and silver dials will just pull off when this is removed. Put them to one side and don’t lose the black washer. Remove the crush washer and reinstall the shaft a few turns. Unscrew the rebound adjuster shaft and put aside. Tap the bolt firmly with the mallet and you’ll feel the compression rod give way inside the fork. Remove the bolt and put aside. Check the state of the oil seals and dust wipes. Remove the dial. Don’t remove them fully, just enough for you to be able to lift the dial off. Sometimes it is difficult to grip the stanchion with out it spinning, so pop it back into the crown, tighten up the pinch bolts and try again. If you have a thin 24mm flat wrench, you can fit this underneath the blue dial and remove the damper with out removing the dials. The colour can give a good indication as to the condition of the seals. Firmly pull the rod out of the lowers. Inspect the o-rings and replace is necessary. Pull the seal head off off the rebound rod and check the o’rings, re-grease and slide back on. Use the 24mm socket to remove the top cap. Pull out the bottom out rod followed by the spring. At the bottom of the stanchion, remove the circlip and pull the compression rod out. Take a note of the order of the parts at the end of this rod. Inspect the o-rings and replace is necessary. If you look closely, one end of the spring has a slightly smaller diameter. Drop the spring into the stanchion small end first.
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Grease the drop stop bumper and insert into the spring. Screw on the top cap with the 24mm socket, just past snug and refit the adjuster knob with the 1.5mm hex. Reinstall the circlip. Make sure the stanchion is vertical, and pour 245ml of 5wt suspension oil into the top of the stanchion. This volume has to be pretty accurate, too much and the forks will not fully compress, too little and you won’t have damping for the whole travel. Lightly grease the top cap threads on the mission control and unit into the stanchion. Hand thread the top cap and then tighten until its just past snug. Reinstall the knobs in the reverse order as before, lightly doing up the grub screws to secure the HSC knob. Pop the LSC knob on and reinstall the bolt with a 4mm hex. Fully slide the stanchions in lowers and thread the rebound rod and spring shaft bolt into their respective sides. Tighten with the 24mm spanner and 5mm hex. Place the two adjuster dials onto the rebound side and slide the C-clip back into place. Reinstall your brakes and wheel and take it for a ride to check everything works! Live action action from Ride It Out's Instagram feed A new law means you’re a criminal. A new law means you’re a criminal. Page 4 and 5: BoXXer R2C2 technical manual GETtin Page 6 and 7: BoXXer R2C2 technical manual anatom Page 8 and 9: BoXXer R2C2 technical manual FORK r Page 10 and 11: BoXXer R2C2 technical manual lower Page 12 and 13: BoXXer R2C2 technical manual coil s Page 14 and 15: BoXXer R2C2 technical manual damper Page 16 and 17: BoXXer R2C2 technical manual damper Page 18 and 19: BoXXer R2C2 technical manual lower Page 20 and 21: BoXXer R2C2 technical manual fork i Thank you, for helping us keep this platform clean. The editors will have a look at it as soon as possible. After undoing the bottom of the boxxers and releasing the lowers from the stanchions hardley any oil came out.I had containers under each leg to capture the oil. Running SWEEEEET now.
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Ive been riding today and what a difference a TOTALLY different ride.All the info on how to do this is available on there website and takes maybe 40 mins the 1st time you do it and is really easy if you have all the instructions printed in front of you. The factory doesn't lube the lowers enough. When you buy a new Boxxer make sure the first thing you do before riding it is pulling the lowers off and putting the right amount of oil in the lowers. Also grease the seals and bushings. The WC spring side is a closed since its Solo Air hence why less oil. The Team and Race Spring assembly has an opening allowing oil to seep into the spring side. A lot of the oil will be absorbed by the grease on the spring thats why Rock shox recommends 40cc's Pink Bike should Sticky this Put this mix, in the prescribed amount, in the lowers, slick honey in the seals, and it will be money. I also put finish line stanchion lube on mine, and now it rides better (in the parking lot) than my old one I rode a full season, and it still hasn't hit a trail. It will only get smoother once its broken in! Put this mix, in the prescribed amount, in the lowers, slick honey in the seals, and it will be money. I also put finish line stanchion lube on mine, and now it rides better (in the parking lot) than my old one I rode a full season, and it still hasn't hit a trail. It will only get smoother once its broken in. I seen this in a tech tip in mountain bike action.does it work.my 2010's will be here tomarrow. I'm going to do a few more rides then change the oil, and re-lube the seals. Should be money for a while then. Can you instead do it like they do with the single crown, that is just take the lowers off and leave the sanctions in the crowns, would be a much easier way of doin it id have thought. Cheers Here are Youtube video's to help show you how its done.WOW! They are sooooo much more plush. You notice most over small bumps where before they just wouldn't move and now they react to everything.
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If they are supposed to get better once they start getting bedded in then I cant wait. The actual job was pretty easy to be honest. Took about 30 mins. Putting the sanctions back in the seals was pretty simple as well which is nice. Just have to do as the video's say. So id 150 recommend this! New DJ bikes. All I can find online is how to replace the seals and oil in the lower legs. Is there any servicing that needs to be done in the upper legs. Also, could someone give me an abbreviated education on the floodgate. I've been searching for hours and have no definitive answers.You're welcome.The user manual and tuning tips is for 2010 Boxxers which have different knobs and differed adjustments. The 2006 bushing manual goes over how to remove the seals and the bushings, but doesnt say what service should be done for the uppers. Anyone with a 2008 Boxxer Team care to share their tuning tips (especially the floodgate option) and if there is a need to service the uppers. Every video I saw online only changes the oil in the lowers.Doing so once you have dropped the lowers off is not difficult at all and can in fact be done mostly through the top-cap. I'm paranoid and I fully disassembled it so that I could examine the condition of the complete workings. The lower part of the damper side on my WC was 100 fine though. The size of the bits would be the major difference. Coming from a zoke that had so much more oil in the lower bath that I only planned on servicing it 2x a year I've taken the mental attitude that I should service this fork every couple months - to clean and check the lowers. I don't plan on cracking the uppers until my next annual overhaul though unless given a reason.Isn't this applicable to the 2008 model as well?This is so your fork does not blow through it's travel when blasting berms or in g-outs, yet remain plush via high speed compression for drops, and rock gardens.
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The term high and low speed are in reference to the speed of the wheel going up and down, not speed of the bike. I hope that was simple enough.So, running the compression damper more-stiff (turns clockwise) with high floodgate resistance will yield a more resistant to moving fork. It's my understanding that different MoCo dampers have different behavior for larger hits, but I really need to play with mine more to really understand how it behaves.It was pretty much like my Domian so I changed all the fluids, changed the seasl, and re-greased the coil. I will have to give it try tomorrow and see how it rides. Hopefully the leaky seals are fixed. Thanks to all!ConsumerREVIEW.com, a business unit of Invenda. The new forks feel amazing, incredibly supple as they enter their travel, very very smooth as the fork rides through its mid stroke and then real bottom feel as the fork ramps up as it reaches its maximum travel. Everything you love about the ride feeling of a Pike only more exaggerated on a bigger travel fork. One of the coolest things about Rock Shox bringing this technology to their BoXXer range for 2015 is that they also brought out an aftermarket Charger Damper upgrade kit. What’s more, installing the cartridge is a relatively straight forward process and something that you can certainly achieve at home with modest mechanical knowledge and the right tools. Below is our step-by-step guide to installation, including a few little tips and tricks to help with the job along the way. You’re welcome! The Steps: Before you get started it’s a good idea to make sure that your work area is clean and clutter free, then go the extra mile by neatly laying out all the individual pieces that come inside the Charger Damper upgrade kit box.
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There are lots of little parts in there and by laying them out before you get started it’ll make each step easier to understand, as well as ensure that you don’t put your forks back together and then realize that you’ve left out installing a bolt, washer or nob. Step 1: To remove your BoXXer’s existing dampener cartridge and drive side stanchion (upper tube). There are also clips on YouTube that will step you through how to do this. There is no need to remove the air spring or non-drive side upper tube. Step 2: Insert the Charger Damper into the top of the upper tube using a 24mm socket to tighten the damper to 7.3 N. Step 3: Apply SRAM Butter (or any good bike specific grease) to the scraper in the lower seal head and install it onto the rebound shaft with the flat side of the lower seal head facing the upper tube. Push the lower seal head into the bottom of the upper tube. Install the retaining circlip into the groove. Check that the retaining ring is properly seated in the retaining ring groove by using the snap ring pliers to rotate the retaining ring and seal head back and forth a few times and then firmly pull down on the rebound shaft. (c) Tim Bardsley-Smith Step 4: Insert the casting plug onto the rebound shaft. Hold the shaft by hand so it does not spin. Use a 5mm hex wrench to thread the silver foot nut into the shaft until it stops, this will seat the casting plug on the shaft. Step 5: Apply the supplied Loctite to the outside of the casting plug. Use isopropyl alcohol to clean the inside surface of the bolt hole of the lower leg. (c) Tim Bardsley-Smith Step 6: Apply a liberal amount of SRAM Butter to the inner surfaces of the lower oil seals and dust wiper seals. Slide the lower leg onto the upper tube just enough to engage the upper bushing. Angle the syringe in the bolt hole so the fluid will only contact the inside of the lower leg. Try not to let fluid contact the Loctite, bolt hole or fill the rebound shaft.
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Then inject 10ml of RockShox 0w-30 suspension fluid into the lower leg. (c) Tim Bardsley-Smith Step 7: Thread the silver foot nut into the rebound shaft. Use a 5mm hex wrench to tighten the bolt to 7.3 Nm. Step 8: Install the rebound adjuster knob onto the silver foot nut. Hold the rebound adjuster knob in place and tighten the 2.5mm set screw to 1.1 Nm. Step 9: Install the low speed compression adjuster dial and retaining screw. March 18, 2020 The Ultimate test of RockShox’s Ultimate offerings October 15, 2019 The most successful product in the history of mountain bike racing Rock Shox BoXXer turns 20 years old. November 29, 2018 Home Shop Latest Issue Contact Us Chasing trail since 2004 We use cookies to ensure that we give you the best experience on our website. If you continue to use this site we will assume that you are happy with it. Ok Privacy policy. Discover everything Scribd has to offer, including books and audiobooks from major publishers. Start Free Trial Cancel anytime. Report this Document Download Now save Save Rockshox Service Manuals 2009 For Later 9K views 0 0 upvotes 0 0 downvotes Rockshox Service Manuals 2009 Uploaded by garr8 Description: Full description save Save Rockshox Service Manuals 2009 For Later 0 0 upvotes, Mark this document as useful 0 0 downvotes, Mark this document as not useful Embed Share Print Download Now Jump to Page You are on page 1 of 92 Search inside document Browse Books Site Directory Site Language: English Change Language English Change Language. Released 2010 English, Deutsch, Espanol, Francais, Italiano, Nderlands, Portuguese. 2010 Rock Shox Boxxer Race (2010RSBOXR) by Rock Shox RockShox New BoXXer Series Suspension Forks, all new 35mm purpose-built chassis is lighter yet stiffer than classic BoXXer.. View technical manuals and service guides. Visit Service. SRAM PowerLock(R) Recall (PDF) Rock Shox BoXXer Race Coil 203 - 2010 Black.
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RockShox Maxle B-O 20mm M-A kit, 06-09 BoXXer-WC,Team,Race, Rock Shox BoXXer-Race Coil. Rock Shox Boxxer Race Coil 2010 Rock Shox Boxxer Race Coil 2010: The most successful. Rock Shox Boxxer Race Forks 2010 - Forks - Suspension. From 560.00. Buy online now at Chain Reaction Cycles for the best price. Refer to the 2010 RockShox Technical Manual (www.sram.com) for.. Totem 2-Step Air 2010. 799,00. Rock Shox. Boxxer Race 2010. 699,00. Rock Shox. rock shox sid 2010 owners manual.pdf. Fox 40 and Rock Shox Boxxer (2009 and later) forks. AOE. Brand new design for 2010 gets. Marin Bikes 2010. excellent Rock Shox Reba Race and. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. I cannot find anything to this specific fork. I have already gone through the SRAM site they have service manuals for boxxers 2003 to 2004 and for the boxer 2006.All rights reserved.By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. Lowerleg service. Includes: Vector Air RC and HLR. Includes he X-Fusion O2 R, RL, RLR, RLX,. Lowerleg service. Here's the typical model with air spring, reb. This how to shows how easy it is to d. Learn how to replace lower leg oil en damper oil y. Volume (ml) Oil wt. Volume (ml) Oil wt. Volume (ml) Oil wt. 230 5 10 15 - - 10 15 2014 Rockshox Oil Chart PDF (www.sram.com) Use our oil volume levels to service your fork yourself. Is your Boxxer not as plush it used to be. It might be time for a quick oil change.Something wrong in the oil table. Please let us know HERE Select other model It will help to. Follow this. How To Bleed Shimano Deore XT Hydraulic Disc Brake Marzocchi Drop Off 2004 oil service How to install the MAGURA H33 and HS11 rim brake.
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Low speed compression and rebound adjusters help fine tune the valving as Ship your fork to us and we can Rider weight is without gear, we We need this number to help set-up your fork rebound damping correctly. This is not. As it isn't a true open bath and you don't have oil sloshing around freely inside the whole fork, you need a small amount of oil in the lowers just to lubricate the stanchions as they pass the bushings inside. So, you can remove the stanchions and clean out the lowers without having to change the damping oil, then grease the seals and replace the stanchions back in the lowers without having to go inside the motion control. Once you have cleaned up the lowers, (spray with degreaser, and shove a cloth in there to wipe up the muck - make sure it's not a cloth that leaves bits of itself behind) put some suspension grease on the inside of the seals and carefully insert the stanchions, taking care not to stretch or damage the outer seal. I hardly ever measure it, I'm fairly good at guessing but be carefull not to overfill it or you'll find you wont get full travel out of the fork. I would say you’d still need some in there for lubrication of the bushings, as all you’ll get in the spring side is grease on the actual spring to stop it from making too much noise and to stop it from causing any resitance. It may say none in bottom leg because it makes no difference, that side is open bath; oil can go from lower legs to stanchion. I would have thought it would be OK to put in both legs, i'll probably do that? It's just the damping side that has the sealed off stanchion, so oil in the lowers, will always remain in the lowers. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. User-Friendly Manuals. Product Instructions. By continuing to browse this site, you agree to thisClick here to return to the Scoop.it home.

Not only will it drive traffic and leads through your content, but it will help show your expertise with your followers.By redirecting your social media traffic to your website, Scoop.it will also help you generate more qualified traffic and leads from your curation work.You can decide to make it visible only to you or to a restricted audience. Our suggestion engine uses more signals but entering a few keywords here will rapidly give you great content to curate. RockShox KB), English, 2011. ?????????? - BoXXer World Cup - 2011 (1.09 MB), English, 2011. 23 Mar 2009 Service manual rockshox suspension fork oil chart 2012 sram. Mantenci n rock Use Peatix for any event and ticketing needs! Co-organizers can edit group and event pages, access sales and attendee information, manage ticket sales and more. Have you seen this product cheaper elsewhere. Leave price alert Have you seen this product cheaper elsewhere. Price Alert You have questions regarding a product. Ask our customer service now. Be the first and leave a comment.Success! You will receive an email shortly to confirm your subscription to our newsletter. MwSt plus shipping cost to the delivery destination: Russia. Shop Blog back This website uses cookies to enable certain functions and to improve your user experience. By continuing to browse the site you are agreeing to our use of cookies. More Information Got it. And by having access to our ebooks online or by storing it on your computer, you have convenient answers with Boxxer 2010 Service Manual. To get started finding Boxxer 2010 Service Manual, you are right to find our website which has a comprehensive collection of manuals listed. Our library is the biggest of these that have literally hundreds of thousands of different products represented. I get my most wanted eBook Many thanks If there is a survey it only takes 5 minutes, try any survey which works for you. Protect yourself! Wear your safety gear! Record your service date to track service intervals.

Removing the fork from the bicycle provides easy access to internal components and is more convenient than working around a complete bicycle. To assist you with post-service assembly, record the distance from the top of the upper tube to the top of the lower crown. Do not loosen the steerer tube clamping bolt located on the upper crown. 4 mm Lower crown Slide the upper tubes down so they clear the upper crown. Non-drive side Use a 5 mm hex wrench to loosen the non-drive side bottom bolt 3 to 4 turns. Drive side Use a 2.5 mm hex wrench to loosen the set screw and remove the rebound adjuster knob located at the bottom of the drive side lower leg. 2.5 mm Use a 5 mm hex wrench to loosen the drive side bottom bolt 3 to 4 turns. Continue pulling downward to remove the lower leg from the fork. If the lower leg does not slide off of the upper tube, then the press-fit of the shaft to the lower leg may still be engaged. Reinstall the bottom bolt 2 to 3 turns and repeat steps 7-9. Insert the tip of a downhill tire lever underneath the lower lip of the lower black oil seal located above the upper bushing. Pull the coil spring from the upper tube. Spray isopropyl alcohol on the preload spacer(s), coil spring, and upper tube threads and clean them with a rag. Verify the three isolators are evenly spaced along the coil spring with approximately 50 mm of exposed coil at each end. Wrap a rag around a long dowel and insert it into the upper tube to clean inside the upper tube. Remove the base plate assembly, wavy washer and support washer from the spring shaft. Install the base plate assembly onto the spring shaft so that the small top out spring is oriented toward the spring perch. Use a measuring device to Identify the end of the coil spring with a smaller diameter. Install the smaller end of the coil spring into the top of the upper tube. Spray isopropyl alcohol on each part and clean with a rag. Clamp the drive side upper tube into a bicycle stand.

Remove the Charger Damper assembly from the upper tube. Clean the upper tube threads with a rag. 24 mm Use a pick or your fingers to remove the compression top cap o-ring. Use a pick to pierce and remove the inner scraper seal from the lower seal head. Use your fingers to install a new o-ring and scraper seal on the lower seal head. Place another 21 mm open end wrench on the wrench flats on the cartridge tube. Holding the cartridge tube in place, turn the rebound damper seal head counter-clockwise to loosen and remove the rebound shaft and piston assembly. Use a pick to pierce and remove the scraper seal. Use your fingers to install a new o-ring and scraper seal. Scraper seal orientation Use your fingers to remove the glide ring from the rebound damper piston. Hold the coupler in place with the vise and turn the wrench counter-clockwise to loosen and remove the cartridge tube from the coupler. Set the cartridge tube aside. 21 mm Remove the coupler, bladder, and compression top cap assembly from the vise. Needle-nose pliers Use your fingers or a pick to remove the o-ring on the low speed compression adjuster. Use your fingers to install a new o-ring. Use your fingers or a pick to remove the o-ring from the compression piston. Use your fingers to install a new o-ring. Use a 24 mm socket to loosen and remove either the coupler or the compression top cap from the bladder, whichever loosens first. Remove the assembly from the vise. If the compression top cap came off in step 24, set the bladder on the hex bit socket with the coupler oriented upward. Use a 25 mm open end wrench to remove the coupler. If the coupler came off in step 24, set the bladder on the hex bit socket with the compression top cap oriented upward. Inspect it for tears or cracks. If there are any tears or cracks, replace the bladder. Spray isopropyl alcohol on the bladder and bladder sleeve and clean them with a rag. Charger Damper Removal.

Use a metric caliper to verify the shim outer diameter and shim thickness or print the page at 100 scale to arrange the shim stack using the outlines on the page.Slide the shim stack onto the piston face. Use your fingers to squeeze the stack and center the shims. N O T I C E Ensure the hoop shim is centered on the shim stack. N O T I C E To prevent damage to the compression piston, position the shaft in the vise so that the piston is clear of the vise block. Use a metric caliper to verify the shim outer diameter and shim thickness or print the page at 100 scale to arrange the shim stack using the outlines on the page.N O T I C E Do not allow the Loctite to come in contact with the shims. Loctite Threadlocker Red 2760 Install the shims on a small wrench in the order of your desired tune. Spray isopropyl alcohol on each part and clean with a rag. Use your fingers to install the bladder onto the bladder sleeve. Install the rebound damper, piston side first, into the top of the cartridge tube. Use your fingers to thread the rebound damper seal head into the top of the cartridge tube. Pull down on the rebound shaft.Wrap a rag around the cartridge tube. Insert the compression piston assembly into the cartridge tube. Use the palm of your hand or a rag to cover the compression top cap, and cycle the rebound damper shaft a few times to help pre-bleed air from the damper. Create a vacuum in the damper assembly by pulling up on the syringe handle and simultaneously pushing up on the rebound damper shaft. Push the syringe handle down and release it. Allow the bladder to come to its natural resting position by waiting a few moments until the syringe stops filling. Use a rag to cover the syringe tip and compression top cap bleed port, then unthread and remove the syringe. Use a rag to clean the outer surface of the lower leg. Install a new crush washer retainer and crush washer on the Drive side non-drive side and drive side bottom bolts.

Leave enough 10 1 clearance between the upper tube and the upper crown to install the frame bumpers. Use a 4 mm hex wrench to tighten one of the lower crown bolts to temporarily hold the tubes in place while you install the bumper.