Bytecc Me-350V4 Manual | Free Full PDF

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Login to post IDE drives nowadays are mostly found on surviving old pc's. They are slow and usually of low capacity. I feel that any money spent would be better directed at replacing the hard drive.IDE is consider to be old technology replaced by SATA. Unless it broken don't play with the wire, you could either leave the wire handing loose or just remove the ide ribbon wire, either way it won't hurt the computer.I can not even find a download for the manual.Close the case.If nothing else, you'll be able to download the latest version of the driver - that may support Windows 7 - without specifically stating that it does. If you're trying to install Win 7 to boot from a hard drive connected to this controller, it may work if you supply the expanded driver on USB, floppy, etc.Tried adding SATA drive myself, but drive ''Not Recognized'' by Setup routine. Already have 2 small IDE drives running from BT-PSAPA. Don't have User Manual or CD. Need simple cable description help. Locate the UpperFilters value under the following key in the registry:Locate the LowerFilters value under the same key in the registry:Quit Registry Editor.NOTE: After you remove the Upperfilters value and the Lowerfilters value, if you notice lost functionality in a particular program, such as CD recording software, you may need to reinstall that software. If the problem recurs, consult with the software vendor for assistance. There are unscrupulous dealers out there that sell the kits in separate parts to bump up profits.Answer questions, earn points and help others. Also sitting lose is a ribbon data cable with no indication of which way around it is to be installed. There are two cables connected to the circuit board, both labelled SATA.I have been unable to find any installation documentation on the internet.IDE is consider to be old technology replaced by SATA.
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Unless it broken don't play with the wire, you could either leave the wire handing loose or just remove the ide ribbon wire, either way it won't hurt the computer. Try your monitor on another PC and check it is OK. Anyway as said check monitor, if it is OK, we will proceed from there, then, you must check your video card, test it in another machine, if possible, to see if thats OK, if it is OK, then it is now likely that you may have a Mother board problem. If you can, try another Video card to see if you get Video on screen. Now if any of these things tested are faulty, Monitor, Video card, obviously replace them, however IF they are NOT faulty, as related it may be the Motherboard, Remove the RAM, and see if anything is on screen. If yes, replace RAM, If still NO, then take any cards out, and check, if then OK, replace cards one by one until you get to the one that stops it, there is your problem, replace it. All we are trying to do is get anything on the screen, if we do, then you must redo the BIOS, as related before. Now if you get it going it still may not boot through to windows desktop, if this is the case, after you boot press F8 and select safe mode, when you get asked if you want safe mode or system restore, choose system restore and choose a date before you had a problem that should get you back.Login to post You have described a 4-pin Peripheral power cable, ('P6'), An IDE harddrive, of which the 4-pin Peripheral power cable example, is plugged into. BOTH of those 'squarish flat black' units, HAVE a 4-pin Peripheral power cable to them. Another hardware component, those type of power wires CAN go to, is a computer case fan. However not ALL power cables have to be used. Sometimes there are extra ones. These are in case they are need later. Or the 4-pin Peripheral power cable you see, may simply be an extra one. One if needed in the future.
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The eMachines T2245 uses a Trigem (Manufacturer), Imperial GLVE (Model name), motherboard, Supports an IDE (PATA) harddrive, (Or 2 of them) Supports an IDE (PATA) optical drive, (or two of them) I DO hope you are following Anti-Static Procedures. Your body carries Static electricity. Static WILL fry out (Short Circuit), the delicate hardware components inside a computer. Relieve your body of Static, BEFORE reaching inside your computer. Computer on a table, computer Unplugged from power, computer case open; TOUCH an unpainted surface, of the metal frame of the open, empty computer case. This action will relieve your body of Static. IF, you leave your computer in the middle of working on it, be SURE to Touch the metal frame again upon your return. Also I would like to add; For additional questions please post in a Comment. Regards, joecoolvetteI'm not clear on which power and data cables you are using. You described pulling one cable from first hard drive and connecting it to your second drive. Extra power connections should have been in a loose wire bundle somewhere in the computer. (Often they are tucked into an unused drive bay.) The SR1720NX has 2 SATA controllers and two IDE controllers. Thus it can have 2 SATA and 4 IDE devices. The computer sometimes shipped with a SATA hard drive or an IDE hard drive. In all cases, the hard drives must be connected to the data cable (and to the motherboard) and then the power connection from the power supply has to be connected. So there should be 2 cables plugged into each drive. The optical drive is usually an IDE drive for this model, also a master drive. The IDE power connection is a large 4-pin Molex connector; the SATA power cables are a smaller 5 pin connector. There is also a small 4 pin connector that powers a floppy drive, if present. The SATA data cable is a 15 pin cable.
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First make sure that the jumper on the drive from the A430n is across the two pins in the second position (counting from the side away from the power connection). This is the cable select option. Next make sure that the IDE cable is firmly connected to both drives and the motherboard. (I've sometimes loosened the data cable while connecting the drives.) Finally check that the appropriate power cables are firmly connected to all the drives. The original power supply could be overloaded with the extra drive. Connect these with extreme care following the directions for when to connect the power supply. Some enclosures won't work without reformatting the drive - you do not want one of those. I hope this helps. Cindy WellsYour main drive (34GB) should be the master, the new one set to slave - this will keep the computer booting off of your current hard drive. It may seem intimidating, but installing a new hard drive is easy once you open up the computer and start comparing parts, looking for your hard drive ports and power supply cables. Just make sure the IDE cable and the power supply cable are firmly attached to the new hard drive when you install it.(power supply cable usually has a white tip, with four loosely bound wires leading to it) I hope this helps!Thus it can be connected to a 4 pin peripheral molex connector to the power supply and a 40 pin IDE ribbon cable. Similarly, you can find some USB external device enclosures that will work with the IDE connect. There are IDE to SATA converters that you can add to connect the drive to a computer with no IDE port on the motherboard. (There are also power adapters to convert a SATA power connector to the 4 pin in the rare case that you do not have a free 4 pin connector. However, a 4-pin y-connector is usually a better choice). All of the above items are available from most computer supply shops. I wish that I could be of more help.
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Cindy Wells (external hard drives currently can have one or more of the following connectors: USB 2.0, e-SATA, Firewire, ethernet, or USB 3.0. The USB 2.0 is the most common. Look at the device and the size of the opening to determine the cable end needed. Standard B is a square end with beveled corners. Usually a text or icon on the device will indicate the port type.)Let me know what happens from hereIDE hard drives and CD drives use the same connector. SATA drives may have that same connector as well, but most use a different style. SATA-ready power supplies will have 1 or more plugs available. Adapters to switch from the 4-pin IDE plug to SATA type are available for supplies that don't have the right connector. If you are asking what power pins from the mainboard power supply connector are supplying power to specific controller parts on the mainboard, that kind of detailed information is not available. Mainboards manufacturers do not supply circuit diagrams or repair information. They simply replace any boards that fail while still covered by the warranty, and expect you wil just buy a new one if the warranty has expired. Much information about ATX boards including the power supply cable pins is found here: Use this adaptor set to retrieve data from a hard drive when it is not mounted in a computer. Selah:-) I have the new hard drive but I am unsure how to procede Simply follow Please make Power down your PC! And for safety measures It’s specially designed to be removed If you're the type of person If another drive Wasn't that easy. Now the fun begins! Usually this connector is either You're almost You’re done. Your hard drive should now be installed and ready forDouble-check your PC or motherboard userPerhaps youYou must also format the drive before it canAgain, consult yourYou may have a faulty drive ide connection input in which case a new DVD Rom is the answer, only cheap nowadays.

I have use this app for years and I’ve just recently had this issue I cannot open it at all Answer questions, earn points and help others. Please email us if you're running the latest version of your browser and you still see this message. The actual Open Box product may differ in packaging and included accessories, but has been tested to ensure basic functionality. I like the sturdy feel. Power led (red) and activity led (blue) are not very bright which I like, some other enclosures have superbrights and that is no fun to have shining at your face all day if you keep the drive on your desk like I do.Maybe they changed things as mine is newer than some reviews, but mine included an instruction sheet (1 page) and a small cheap screwdriver which was enough to install the drive with no problems.I won't make the same mistake again. I also will never buy anything by Bytecc again. They're going to get this back with the screws stripped, by the time I'm done with it.No fan noise (since it lacks a cooling fan).Unfortunately I didn't buy it at NewEgg; I know that NewEgg would have exchanged it for me.Good thick aluminum, not some tin can case. I like the modular plugs to switch between SATA and IDE.The screws to open the case are recessed and the holes are too small for a standard screwdriver bit. You need a precision screwdriver to open the enclosure. I don't see any need for this. Second, major issue. The power supply died in less than 5 minutes. It was plugged into the UPS too. I was fortunate enough to have an old power supply from an old, dead enclosure that was compatible and saved me from a RMA.I'm almost equally upset over the recessed screws. I almost had to run out at the last minute to buy a bleeping screwdriver. It is running fine at the moment, for what it's worth.Click here for more details. Secure shopping made faster. Check out with PayPal.

Any exceptions to the condition of the item outside the manufacturer’s information should be provided in the listing, up to and including warranty details. Any accessories MAY OR MAY NOT be included. Newegg will NOT send you any missing accessories, even if it is required to use all of the item’s functions.Open Box items usually do not come with manufacturer or vendor warranty or technical support. However, warranty support may be available if an item was never registered by a previous owner. Please contact the manufacturer to check. Product may includes warranty, and accessories found with the original product. Product may or may not be in the original packaging. Returned items with minor packaging defects fall under this category. Product does not come with warranty unless stated otherwise in product description. Product does not come with warranty unless stated otherwise in product description. Product does not come with warranty unless stated otherwise in product description. Functionality issues beyond signs of use should be disclosed in product description. Some manufacturers place restrictions on how details of their products may be communicated. Some manufacturers place restrictions on how details of their products may be communicated. Some manufacturers place restrictions on how details of their products may be communicated. Some manufacturers place restrictions on how details of their products may be communicated. Bytecc ME-350V4-ISA-BK drivers updated daily. I can not even find a download for the manual. Specification. Brand, BYTECC. Model, ME-350V4-ISA.A password reset link will be sent to you by email. Select Your Operating System, download zipped files, and then proceed to manually install them. Recommended if Bytecc Me350v4 Su3 is the only driver on your PC you wish to update. Password: Don’t have a password. Please register, and get one. Join our community and get entered to win a RTX 2060 GPU, plus more! Join here.
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The show is live August 11th at 2:30 pm ET (7:30 PM BST). Watch live right here! Click here! For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. There are two LEDs on the BT-300, a red one and a green one. Only the green one is lit and I believe I have properly attached the cable to the IDE connection at the back of the drive. When I try a second IDE drive, I get BOTH the red and the green LEDs lit. Again, I don't see the drive in File Explorer. There is no documentation at all in the box with this device. I have no reason to believe the device is defective but I don't understand what the LEDs signify, especially the red one, and why I'm not seeing the drive on the computer. I expected to see a new drive, just as if I had put a flash drive in the USB port. Is that not what happens. I've never used one of these adapters before so I can only guess. Hmm, I just googled this device and found a very short PDF (a single page) which says 3.5 inch IDE drives need to be all be set as Master devices. Perhaps the red light is telling me that this drive is NOT a master?? Has anyone used this adapter. If so, could you confirm the meaning of the red LED and tell me if the drive connected via the adapter is supposed to show up in File Explorer like a flash drive or if there is some other way I'm supposed to see what's on it? All desktop-size SATA drives are powered from the Bytec unit and that REQUIRES that the power supply module be plugged into the Bytec unit to give it that power. For IDE drives, however, whether of desktop or laptop size, the connection from the power module must go directly to the drive's 4-pin power input connector. For that reason, they designed the connector from the power module the same as a standard female 4-pin Molex power output from a PSU.

For laptop-size SATA HDD's (which plug into the same SATA connector on the Bytec unit) the instructions claim that no power connection is necessary because all power required by the drive will be supplied by the USB connection between computer and Bytec. However, you don't have any of those to deal with now, anyway. If most of your old drives have no jumper diagrams on them, you should be able to get the info from the makers' websites by searching for the exact model number with the search terms Jumper or Master. If you get it wrong, it is highly unlikely that you will do any damage. It just won't give you access to the drive. Of course, you MAY find among all those old units some that actually have failed and will not give you data. But at least now you KNOW the right way to do it, so you won't have to worry that you did something wrong. I don't understand you post comment about what happens when you attach a second IDE drive. This device appears to be designed for use with ONLY ONE drive at a time. That is part of why any IDE drive must be set to the Master role. These drives have been unused for years and I no longer have the original computers, just the drives. I have also long forgotten how to set each one to Master, Slave or Cable. I can probably find that out via some googling for each drive. By the way, I suspect the reason the drives don't show up on my laptop with the cable connected is that they're not getting any power. I had assumed this cable was going to also power the drives somehow but now that I think about it more, I suppose that's not realistic. My drives are 3.5 inch. Hmm, I thought I refreshed this page a couple of minutes ago before I began typing this and your reply was the only one here. Now, I'm seeing additional replies that are dated two days ago. That's odd. But it confirms that a lack of power is why the drive does not show up on my laptop. I don't understand you post comment about what happens when you attach a second IDE drive.

That is part of why any IDE drive must be set to the Master role.Where do I find them? 2. Thank you VERY much for confirming my suspicion that the lack of power was why I wasn't seeing the drive on my laptop. I just thought I'd try here first since it was convenient. I suppose I'd better start researching how to set each of the drives to Master. I don't understand you post comment about what happens when you attach a second IDE drive. That is part of why any IDE drive must be set to the Master role.I disconnected the first drive when I didn't see it in File Explorer on my laptop, then connected the second drive. I didn't mean to give the impression that I had both drives connected at the same time. The adapter wouldn't allow that anyway but unless you had it in your hand, you wouldn't know that. On the question of LED meanings, I agree it's bad that the unit did not come with instructions to make that clear. My guess is that one (Red?) is to confirm the presence of power to the unit OR a connection via the USB cable, and the other (Green?) is to confirm a valid connection to a drive. Regarding two drives at once, I understand you did not do that.Unfortunately, my hard drives are a rather mixed bag. I found a YouTube video several hours back that suggested just what you said: that most hard drives had either text, or a diagram, or both indicating where the jumper had to be set the drive on Master but I'm not finding that on ANY of my drives, except one. They're all widely-used brands too, like Seagate and Maxtor, not obscure brands you've never heard of. I hope there will be diagrams somewhere for each of these models, even the very old ones, otherwise I suppose I'll just have to go with trial and error and hope none of my trials damages anything. As for the Red LED, I don't think your guess can be right. When I connected the two drives that I've already tried, neither one was powered at the 4 power pins.

The first drive showed just a green LED, the second drive showed a green and a red. Both were 3.5 inch IDE drives. It seems more likely that the red is an indication that the drive isn't set to master and has nothing to do with power, otherwise BOTH drives should have shown a red LED. But maybe it means something else altogether. Then connect the BT-300 adapter to the SATA hard drives. But I got nothing like that in the package. When I looked at the other end, I saw that it would fit over the 4 power pins of a hard drive. I also noted 4 pins recessed within the adapter itself so I (reasonably?) assumed that my cord was supposed to be plugged into the adapter and that this would somehow power whatever drives I attached. I'd forgotten about the end with the 4 pins until I read the passage of the manual I just quoted. I disconnected that cord from the adapter and put it on my hard drive and the green LED immediately came on. I plugged the USB cable into my computer and got nothing. Then I moved the jumper over one position and tried again. I may have to do a bit of diddling to figure out the master setting for some of the drives but I'm much further ahead than I was a few minutes ago. Once again, talking your problem through with someone else has helped me solve a problem. Thank you for your help with this! All desktop-size SATA drives are powered from the Bytec unit and that REQUIRES that the power supply module be plugged into the Bytec unit to give it that power. But at least now you KNOW the right way to do it, so you won't have to worry that you did something wrong. All desktop-size SATA drives are powered from the Bytec unit and that REQUIRES that the power supply module be plugged into the Bytec unit to give it that power. But at least now you KNOW the right way to do it, so you won't have to worry that you did something wrong.

Even if they had mentioned that there WAS a manual online, that would have been a start, although this particular manual left a lot to be desired. But all I got was a box with nothing inside at all beyond the unit, which tends to tell me that this is an item that is self-explanatory and you can't really go wrong. So, Murphy's Laws being what they are, I put it together in a way that seemed reasonable and got it wrong. Thanks a bunch BYTECC!;-) I don't actually have an old laptop drive to use with the adapter - yet - but it could happen. My old laptop - I just got a new one for Christmas - is on its last legs. As long as it keeps working, I can network it and access it that way but once it's toast, I'll probably need this adapter to access it and pull the old data off it. Then I'll have to figure out how to get the drive out and will see if I need a second USB cable for it. I'm probably not going to be able to get to all the 3.5 inch drives either; I'd forgotten that two of them were SCSI. I still have a SCSI cable somewhere but I'm not sure I have anything to connect it to an IDE or SATA connector. But I've already found a treasure trove of old source code that I really wanted to find so I'm already ahead of the game. I'm glad to hear that I'm unlikely to damage anything by putting a jumper in the wrong place. I had hoped that would be the case. Some of those drives are pretty darned old - the oldest was from my first PC, purchased in 1993 so I'm guessing the manufacturer may not clutter their site with manuals for such old drives - and trial and error may be my only option. Then again, if it's possible to make a reasonable-seeming assumption that is actually completely wrong, I'm often capable of making it, as I've already demonstrated The one mystery that remains unsolved is what the red LED means. I suppose I can always write Bytecc and ask. Perhaps they'll even answer in a way that is clear and comprehensible Until then, thanks again for your help.

I don't actually know what the red LED means yet but I now have the adapter working and understand how it needs to be connected to a 3.5 inch IDE drive, which was my key difficulty. I suppose I essentially figured it out for myself but I can't select any of my own comments as the solution so I will chose Paperdoc's since our conversation got me closest to the answer. Thanks to ALL who replied; you were all helpful in helping me get to the solution! I don't actually know what the red LED means yet but I now have the adapter working and understand how it needs to be connected to a 3.5 inch IDE drive, which was my key difficulty. Thanks to ALL who replied; you were all helpful in helping me get to the solution! Replies from many people with different ideas and ways of explaining them help people learn new stuff and understand the real issues. So I'm glad you understand that you did a huge part of the work here. Thanks for the Best Solution, and I understand that many others deserve that, too. Incompable? Incompable? We are working every day to make sure our community is one of the best. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. But i want to connect it to a PC laptop which has only USB ports. How do I connect it? We are working every day to make sure our community is one of the best. Please if you're running the latest version of your browser and you still see this message. If you see this message, your web browser doesn't support JavaScript or JavaScript is disabled. The Bytecc Silver Star enclosure is a very great item for those. BYTECC ME-305SU-SILVER Aluminum 3.5' USB 2.0 External Hard Drive Enclosure Video Review. Bytecc ME 350V4 external drive enclosure how to open the case? - BYTECC ME-740 Aluminum 3.5' Hard question. Please enable JavaScript in your browser settings so Newegg.com can function correctly.

Cons: I have no way of knowing whether the manufacturer's claims are true because I CANNOT OPEN THE CASE. There are no instructions, but I found another person's review helpful to open via screws in the back. I've been trying to unscrew the screws for the past 20 minutes, with every bit of force I have in my body, and the screws simply WON'T BUDGE. I bought from a local retailer, so I will have to drive the 12 miles back there to return this junk. Other Thoughts: I should have looked up reviews while I was in the store before I purchased. I won't make the same mistake again. They're going to get this back with the screws stripped, by the time I'm done with it. No fan noise (since it lacks a cooling fan). Unfortunately I didn't buy it at NewEgg; I know that NewEgg would have exchanged it for me. Other Thoughts: Added rubber feet so it won't slip off the desk. Pros: The enclosure itself is pretty solidly built. Good thick aluminum, not some tin can case. I like the modular plugs to switch between SATA and IDE. Cons: First problem, an annoyance. The screws to open the case are recessed and the holes are too small for a standard screwdriver bit. I was fortunate enough to have an old power supply from an old, dead enclosure that was compatible and saved me from a RMA.

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