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The cable sheath often fractures at the control or carburettor end as the tiller is repeatedly tilted up and can cause the throttle to jam open. The slide should touch the base of the jet assembly when the throttle lever is closed. If not, this can be adjusted with the knurled nut at the top of the carburettor assembly.A charge was built in the condenser by magnets on the flywheel and when the points opened, the charge fed through the ignition lead. After 1987 the company used a sealed ignition system which rarely gives problems. The ignition is accessed by removing the domed nut on the top of the flywheel and taking off the flywheel pulley and plate. You should also remove the plug to allow the engine to turn easily. On all engines, the point gap is 0.5mm and is adjusted by slackening the large plate- securing large bolt and twisting an eccentric screw. Rock a small piece of card between the contacts when closed to keep the faces clean. And always have a spare. There should be a clear blue spark (test this out of direct sunlight). The plug should be tan to brown colour. Black oiling or carbon may indicate prolonged slow running, the mixture being too rich or too much two-stroke oil. The same size plug will fit all sizes of engine: Champion 10COM, NGK A6 or Bosch M10AC. If everything else is ok but the spark is still weak, try spinning the engine with an electric drill for about five minutes with the plug left out. This will re-magnetise the flywheel. Metric or AF spanners and sockets do not match the nuts and bolts on Seagulls, for which you need a set of British Whitworth spanners. For parts and advice, suppliers will need the serial number of your engine which can be found at the top of the crankshaft tube. Sources of parts and advice can be found at www.saving-old-seagulls.co.uk, a website run by John Williams who deserves a medal for the mass of advice and ideas he freely provides. He also keeps a good stock of spares. Also Sheridan Marine, www.sheridanmarine.
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com, keeps parts and manuals. Beyond this we need only heed the words of the British Seagull Outboard Motor Company: Few engines have ever given as little bother and such long and loyal service to thousands upon thousands of owners as the Seagull. You need to enter a valid Mailchimp API key. Established 1972 This Workshop Manual provides essential information for the more technical servicing processes and works well in conjunction with the relative British Seagull Owners Spares books (LIT01 and LIT02) as many of the diagrams were not included again in the Workshop Manual. Richard Bach. They came in the evening, then,He gives me Flight. He makes me. Young. For both I am deeply grateful.' RAY BRADBURY. Jonathan. Livingston. Figure 10 Salinity gradient of the Caloosahatchee River estua Figure 10 Salinity gradient of the Caloosahatchee River estua This is often not true because British Seagull is from the beginning made after a specific philosophy and for safe service under difficult conditions at sea. Many letters from happy owners were written to the factory in England. Living with this and other positive testimonials from their owners British Seagull has become almost an institution among sailors all over the world. Since the first Seagull was manufactured in 1931 few basic things have been changed. The engine was at first made by the Sundbeam Motor Company and John Marston Ltd., who built the famous Sundbeam motorcycles in Wolverhampton. The engine was developed over the years and made for different duties with different propeller sizes and gearing. Many engine parts can be changed between the models. The same spare part can also be used for different models. The design of the engine is simple and rugged and it demands a minimum of service and can be dismantled by simple tools. It is made of pure marine grade materials and for service in salt water and will last for many years. It is not uncommon to find a Seagull after 40 years of use to be as new after cleaning up.

All Seagull engines are made for use at boats with displacement hull. Boats that goes through the water and not more or less above it. The engines have no bearings but large bronze bushes which means that an engine can by accident go overboard and still be saved. The propeller is large and made for modest rpm. At least 10.000 engines were made in a short time. Some of these engines only made one single journey to destruction but a lot were saved and used until our days. After some years Marston Seagull production rights was bought out by the two engineers and entrepreneurs John Way-Hope and Bill Pinninger. The two men had earlier worked at the engineering department at Sundbeam Motor Company developing the Seagull engines. John Way-Hope has written the very enjoyable, readable and useful, today classical manuals about how to use and maintain your British Seagull. Lubrication of the gearbox. You must not use grease. Oil only must be used. Fill up to filler plug hole measured with engine in upright position. The sparking plug. Nearly 90 of engine failure is due to plug trouble, and yet, plug trouble is almost entirely avoidable. Points gap 0.020 in. (0,5 mm). For later models with breakerless ignition 0.035 in (0,9 mm), not less. Always carry a spare, good, plug.not just another plug which has probably been rejected faulty on some previous occasion. If the engine cuts out suddenly or do not start after tree or four pulls it is ten chances to one that it is plug trouble. Whip out the plug at once and check. The boat and speed. Now as regards obtaining maximum speed from the whole outfit: First of all, in any displacement dinghy, that is to say one which goes through the water, as opposed to a speed dinghy which planes on top of it, maximum possible speed of the boat is governed entirely by the length of the boat and not by the power exerted by the engine. To some this may be surprising but it is a fact. As a rough guide, a 9-foot hull will reach 4.

5 knots and a 16-footer 6 knots; other lengths in proportion. Always remember, however, that it is a waste of effort to try and drive a boat above its calculated maximum referred to above. Do not use a scrap more throttle opening than is necessary. The most economical cruising speed is with the throttle lever a third open approximately in line with the tiller. Technical data and useful information about British Seagull engines. The following is from a folder was published by the former distributor in Sweden, AB Motor Reimers in Stockholm and dated from 1. January 1957. Model 40 (Code SJM). This engine is for 6-9 foot dinghies with low transom and in the category 1-1.5 hp. An easy motor to handle and liked by ladies and children. Space: 851x267x318 mm. Model Super 40 Plus (Code SJP). This engine gives about 2.5 hp and is the ideal engine for 8-12 foot dinghies, 4-5 m rowing boats and as stand by power for smaller sail boats. Space: 953x267x318 mm. Model Super 40 Plus, Long (Code SJP-L). For boats as above with higher transom this engine is 150 mm longer but gives the same gear reduction and has a large 4-bladed propeller. Space: 1105x267x318 mm. Model 100 Century (Code LLS). This is the latest engine in the Seagull family. It is developed with a detachable cylinder head (square cylinder head), lower fuel consumption and larger gear reduction. Model 100 Century, Long (Code LLS-L). Same as above but 150 mm longer. Ideal stand by power engine for larger sail boats. Model 102 (Code TC). This engine gives about 3.5-4 hp at ca. 3.800 rpm. With the right boat it will make up to 7 knots. Space: 1054x330x305 mm. Model 102, Long (Code TC-L). For boats with higher transom you can use this engine which is 150 mm longer than TC. Space: 1210x330x305 mm. Modell 102 Plus (Code THC). This engine gives more power than the above, large gear reduction and has 4-bladed propeller with high thrust and can tow sailboats of 8-20 tons displacement in calm weather. Space: 1150x330x305 mm.

Model 102 Plus, Long (Code THC-L). Same engine as above but for boats with higher transom. Space: 1300x330x305mm. Note! British Seagull never claimed effect in hp for their engines but talked about the propeller thrust it gives as this is a better measure for displacement boats. The hp categories given above are based on theoretical calculations. By different diameters of the propeller and different gearing the engines were optimised for their respective use. British Seagull. Some technical data and important notes. Recommended gearbox oil: EP 90, gear oil for models: FS, EFS, FPC, EFPC, SC, ESC, EFNR, ENC, EN. SAE 140, gearbox oil is unsuitable for: FS, EFS, 55, 75, 90, 125 and 170 models. Change gearbox oil at least every season. Check correct level often. It is normal for a small amount of water to enter the gearbox. This will not harm the gears or bearings. Useful spares and tools: Extra spark plug, propeller safety spring and split pin, starting cord, combination spanner and screwdriver. Model identification. The model identification is the first group of letters of the serial number on the crankcase. Older engines can be this ratio if some modifications are made. Engine mounting. The motor must be fitted upright (vertically) with the exhaust outlet only an inch or so below the surface of the water. Deeper immersion will affect both quick starting and performance. Water pump and cooling system. The Seagull water pump is valveless and seldom gives any trouble. When the water is circulating correctly it will be seen flowing from the outlet. The motor can be run at low speeds for a minute or so without the water flowing and then speeded up to circulate water. Flush the cooling system. Drain all water from the cooling system by standing the motor in a vertical position. Drain all fuel in tank and fuel pipe. Remove the spark plug and inject some two-stroke oil through the plug hole and carburettor intake. Spin the motor to distribute the oil.

Replace the spark plug loosely. Drain and refill the gear box. Brush the external surfaces of the engine with a light penetrating oil. Store the motor in upright position in a warm dry place. Finally. Do not forget to attach your motor by the casing tube (not bracket) to the boat with a lanyard. Literature, important to study: British Seagull, Owners handbook. British Seagull, Service manual. British Seagull, Spares List. Always quote your engine number for questions and when ordering spares. Disclaimer. You accept all risks and responsibility for losses, damages, costs and other consequences resulting directly or indirectly from using this site and any information or material available from it. No modifications required. The small screw in the top of the throttle valve piston controls the adjustment. The standard setting is flush or one full turn above the top of the piston. British Seagull REMOVAL OF FLYWHEEL MAGNETOS. THE MAGNETO FLYWHEEL should never be removed except for major overhaul or repair after submersion, accident, etc. To adjust the contact breaker points, it is only necessary to remove the flywheel nut and starter-pulley-plate on top of the magneto. Make adjustments through the exposed apertures in the flywheel. Flywheel removal should only be undertaken by a mechanic with a well fitting spanner, and an assistant supporting the flywheel.Carefully retaining this position, get an assistant to lift up, and keep the flywheel lifted with both hands (two people are essential - the operation cannot be achieved single-handed). Then strike the dome nut a good hard blow with a medium hammer. This will release the flywheel from the crankshaft. Light blows with a light hammer only damage the dome nut and crankshaft threads. (5) Remove the dome nut and lift off the flywheel. (6) To remove the baseplate assembly, as well as the flywheel merely slacken off the slotted base-screw (Part No. M.242) several tuns, and lift off. The fit is fairly tight. (7) RE-ASSEMBLY.

When replacing the magneto baseplate, see that this slotted screw engages in the timing hole in the crankcase spigot. This screw should be secured firmly, but not overtightened. (8) Before replacing the flywheel and starter-pulley-plate by hand, grease the taper. Carefully locate the keyway over the crankshaft key, and screw down the dome nut really tightly. Use a well fitting spanner in conjunction with a hammer to harden down. (9) The contact breaker points should be adjusted to.020 inch (0.5 m.m.) before refitting the starter-pulley-plate etc. N.B. The position in paragraph 4 must be retained throughout, particularly whilst the hammer is used, otherwise, the crankshaft may be distorted and the main bearings misaligned. For more “British Seagull” information: WWW.LAGERHOLM.COM Learn how we and our ad partner Google, collect and use data. Asking for parts for an old Seagull is just not on! Images for illustration only. Each order is subject to postage and packing to your location. Just visit and You can find the serial number location by following this link: Other than that, there are the Seagull Service Manual and technical specification sheets (I believe still available from Seagull, in England, ), and the many Owner’s Manuals and Owner’s Spares Books that were issued with new engines, usually available used at eBay.Take a look at: There is also some other information on Seagulls in that page. Click on the following for a link to the O-rings I currently use: The above link leads to a reputable (and with reasonable prices) source of these O-rings for the fuel valve repair: The recommended oil in the gear case for some engines: SAE 140 gear oil for regular use, SAE 90 gear oil for cold weather, and even engine oil under freezing conditions, but never grease; change the gear case oil every 15 hours of running time. Available at an auto parts store or where truck parts are sold. Some automotive stores can possibly have it or order it for you. This is normal.

That is why the oil changes color, and the reason for the need to change it every 15 hours of use. If the oil mixture has thickened so much, possibly due to extended storage, then perhaps some engine degreaser or grease solvent could do the job, but I do not know it that would do more harm than good. I would prefer to just use fresh gear oil, of the recommended type, spin the engine so it warms up, and then pour the mixture out. Repeat the operation as necessary. If you are idling, water will stop coming out, but this is normal. Just ensure that everything is OK by opening the throttle so as to reestablish the water circulation every so often. When warm, the choke is not necessary. If the Seagull does not start in 3-4 pulls of the cord, STOP, do not keep trying. You will only make matters worse. Inspect the park plug and clean or replace as required. If you smell gas, remove excess fuel from the carburetor by pulling the cord with the fuel valve shut off and the HT lead disconnected. This is a good time to check the HT lead for any problems. Beyond that, the next suspect is the condenser points, as they may require cleaning and or adjusting. At this point, if nothing has worked, call it day and a mechanic, and go home to watch some TV! Flooding is typically because of a needle that sticks in the float chamber. I recommend that you get one of the Seagull manuals I recommended to you earlier, as the repair can produce more damage than good if not done correctly. Perhaps start with minimal disassembly and squirt in some carburetor cleaner. Of course, do this only if you absolutely know that you will have power all the way to your destination. According to the original owner’s manual I received with my 1968 Seagull, this is a mark of good seamanship! Usually cleaning the magneto and coil contacts and cleaning and re-gapping the spark plug and contact set is sufficient to regain the spark.

I cannot promise that I can cure every ill, but maybe I can help, if only by stopping an owner doing something that might damage their motor. However I suggest you use all these suggestions at your own risk, as I have no control over how you are going to do things in your back yard. Some have been printed in the Yachting press, as the result of interviews with me. Some of the tips have come from ex workers at British Seagull and ex directors, others from enthusiastic owners. Please feel free to pass these FAQ on to others, with my name on it: However, please don’t do as one Australian dealer and others have done, just use it as his own. Needless to say he will not be found on the links page. Can I use unleaded fuel.Can I use less than a 10 to 1 fuel mixture. How do I know if my motor has been converted to 25:1? Bing carbs, what mix do they have to have. The Fuel cap has 10:1 on it. I can't see my carb shown anywhere. My motor says I can run it on 50:1, is that right. What Oil should be in my gearbox, it looks like coffee coloured sludge. I have seen somewhere that you must not use EP oils in British Seagulls, is that right. My seagull book says to use 90-grade oil. My fuel tap is leaking, Do I need a new one. My carb is all bunged up with goo!!! I have problems getting water to circulate when I test in the tub. What are the holes in the exhaust tube for. My British Seagull runs for 15 minutes then loses power, slowing to a stop. It is not seized. Why does my carb leak when I tilt the motor on arrival at the shore. Motors been laid up for a while in my shed and now it won’t fire up. How best to clean the bronze bracket parts of my British Seagull. What puller should I use to remove the flywheel. How do I change the timing. The points setting printed on my engine is less than 20 thou, why. Should the setting on my plug be 25 thou, as it says in my hand book.