02 Mustang Manual Transmission Fluid | Free Full PDF

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We are one of the largest Mustang communities on the Web. Feel free to browse the site. Also please take a moment to Sign Up. It's FREE and you get access to post and reply on our site, follow popular users and use the SEARCH function. Enjoy your visit and become a member today.For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Yo, it's mad beefy tight bulletproof now boooooooooooooy. Any full synthetic ATF would be just fine and would give you great protection against whatever it is that goes on in that big chunk 'o tranny. In the northeast,once it gets cold,the dex will cause grinding.I switched to a full syn atf and the tranny is smoothe as silk. Use non syn Dex at your own risk. I saw the amounts for the T5 and for the 3650, but not the T45 In the northeast,once it gets cold,the dex will cause grinding.I switched to a full syn atf and the tranny is smoothe as silk. Use non syn Dex at your own risk.I saw the amounts for the T5 and for the 3650, but not the T45Shifts even smoother than when the Mobil 1 atf was in there even when cold. With the 3650 you'll need 4 quarts. It won't run out the hole, but according to the manual the tranny needs 3.7 liters to be full. Since a quart is.945 liters I just did the math. What's Needed Besides Tranny Is The Any Mods? Please help!! What's Needed Besides Tranny Is The Any Mods? Please help. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. So just a few questions I needed help with. Is there a drain plug on the torque converter for 2002 ford mustang GT's (manual). What kind of oil should I put in and how much. I heard I need to drop the transmission pan to replace the filter.
http://www.seunke.nl/userfiles/02-q45-owners-manual.xml

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Afterwards I heard to remove my shifter and dump the transmission fluid through the shifter holes that lead to the transmission so that you don't need a pump to fill it. What happens if you over fill it though. No I'm not taking it to the dealership I want to do this myself. Yes it is my first time. But so was my first oil change, my first spark plug changes and etc. Just clearing that up before everyone recommends to take it to the dealership like every other post I've seen. Also, is it true to mix some of the old oil in with the new. A guy told me to do that otherwise I'll mess up the transmission.You're confusing yourself with auto and manuals.Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App Thats the problem with when I was searching it up it kept mixing up answers between an automatic and a stick shift. Not to mention the different transmission in different year mustangs. Pretty sure the 2002 was purely t45 though right. The 3650 was an early 2001 model then later 2001's went with the t45. So a manual transmission doesn't have a filter. I thought they still had torque converters. Thought every car does lol. EDIT: Think I'm confusing myself between a differential and a torque converter -.- disregard my thinking. Thats the problem with when I was searching it up it kept mixing up answers between an automatic and a stick shift. EDIT: Think I'm confusing myself between a differential and a torque converter -.- disregard my thinking.But ya drain bolt underneath passenger side fill 4 quarts through shifter and done. Suuuuper simple. Tuned by mike post. Now I know this is a huge debate but what are the best transmission oils to use and what viscosity. Top three and it'll be an easy pick for me lol. I heard pennsoil, gm synchmesh, mobile 1 something, and royal purple. Now when i drain out the fluid is this all (well most) of the oil coming out. Heard with the torque converters they can hold an extra 7-8 quarts while the transmission pan only holds 3 or so.
http://autotuning-nv.ru/userfiles/02-raptor-660-repair-manual.xml

Chances are it's out of sync but worth a shot. If i go straight to reverse from a stop it grinds. But I learned that if i shift in any gear before hand then to reverse it'll go right in. I heard something about a clutch break. Not sure if thee is a clutch break. I never worried to much about it because its simple to go into gear first then to reverse, but hoping it doesn't become a major problem someday. And back on topic, 105k miles on my mustang. This is the first transmission change done to the car as far as i know. I had it since 75k miles. How often do you recommend changing the oil after the 100k mark? You don't have one. Just buy 4qts of syncromesh. Drain the fluid. Leave the plug open. Pour it through the shifter until it starts to come out of the plug. Pour slow on the third and fourth bottle. You're over thinking everything. My t45 grinds reverse. Going into 5th the reverse works. Syncromesh helps. Someone posted a thread about fixing their reverse problem by pushing in the clutch and side stepping quickly and letting the pedal slam up. Reverse on our transmissions are not synchronized and you cannot rev match reverse. Going into a forward gear then to reverse usually works. Sometimes you may have to jog the car a little to get the gears aligned. According to my users manual (T45) you are suppose to use Mercon and not Mercon V. Both are Ford products. GM Synchromesh is suppose to be the best. Also own: 1997 Harley FXDWG, 1998 F-150, and 2002 Corvette LS1 I recommend Pennzoil Synchromesh, 3.4qt But ya drain bolt underneath passenger side fill 4 quarts through shifter and done. Suuuuper simple.Ford had a service bull item about the 3650s where they need 3 liters which is 3.3 quarts I think. And. Not to exceed that. Fill with 3.2 qts of MercV atf, Mobil 1 ATF, or GM synchromesh. Personally I prefer GM synchromesh. I run it in my T56 Magnum It's important to keep the car level while you do this, though.Full exhaust. Steeda tri-ax.

Just remove the covering or do I need to unbolt the metal plate. Tried startin to fill it through the fill plug and it was ridiculous doing it with just ramps.I have nothing to seal it back up. I took the cover of, the big boot being held down by the medal plate and the boot around the shifter itself. I didn't want to go any farther because that medal plate was a pain to get off lol. The screws were tight all the way till they came out and coupled with the sun beaming on me, ugh. I finished pumping about 3.5 quarts or so. Was hard to tell between all the tranny fluid on the ground and on me lol. Plus the pump didn't pump the last pint or so worth of fluid. Just stuck in there. I'd still like to know how to do it through the shifter though for the next time. So how do you take it off? Just remove the covering or do I need to unbolt the metal plate. Tried startin to fill it through the fill plug and it was ridiculous doing it with just ramps.I have nothing to seal it back up.It all comes out in 1 piece. Theres (4) 8mm that go to the inner rubber boot and then remove the (4)13mm securing the shifter to the tranny. Yes you want to use some rtv on the shifter when you reinstall the shifter. Make sure to remove the old rtv completely. Also the shifter might be a tough to get off after u hve everything loose, you just have to work with it. Over the past few months it has started to have a issue when you wind the gears out.Just joined the forums! Like the title says, tragedy has struck my 01 2V. She went KABOOM big time so now I am trying to bring her back to life. Sorry this is sooo long but I am having fun with it. Lets start by getting acquainted with my build so far:Right now my cylinder walls are a mess and two pistons broke after going lean on the dyno roughly 6 years ago and I’m looking to get it fixed.The motor and transmission are not in the car (I do have them). What is the minimum harness connections needed to flash the ecu.
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Is it the whole electrical system needs to be hooked up or just the main harness. I need to flash it back to stock before I. So me and my buddy purchased a flashpaq superchip for our cars last week. So figured we’d split the comish and each tune our cars. I have a 98, hes got a 2010. Well if your shaking your head at our thought process already, then thats because you know what im about to ask.is there. Come join the discussion about performance, racing, builds, modifications, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more. Please upgrade your browser or activate Google Chrome Frame to improve your experience. We are currently shipping orders at full capacity. Click Here for more updates. Check out LMR's quick and easy New Edge fluid capacity guide to get your Mustang maintained! Simply explained, this means the oil being used is a multi-viscosity application. The first number you see is the classification of the cold weather viscosity. The smaller the number is on this first number means the oil being used will be less viscous at lower temps. The second number after the “W” is the high temp viscosity, or how the oil is at operating temps. Once again, the higher the number, the thicker the oil would be. Thicker oil is not always better, depending on the age and wear of the engine, thicker viscosity oil can benefit you. On a brand new engine, this could actually hurt you. Ford and other manufactures have specifications normally listed on the oil cap or in the factory owner’s manual. Ford, Ford Lightning, SVT, Special Vehicle Team, F-Series, F150, Triton and all representations are trademarks of the Ford Motor Company. Eaton is a trademark of the Eaton Corporation. Ford, Ford Mustang, Mach 1 Mustang, Shelby GT 500, 5.0 Mustang, Cobra R, Fox Body Mustang, SVT Cobra, Bullitt Mustang, Mustang Cobra, Mustang GT, V6 Mustang, S197, SN95 are all registered trademarks of Ford Motor Company. Saleen is a registered trademark of Saleen Incorporated.
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Roush is a registered trademark of Roush Enterprises Inc. Latemodel Restoration has no affiliation with Ford Motor Company, Roush Enterprises, or Saleen. Any usage or mentions of these terms throughout our website and print ads are used for identification purposes only. Truck freight and oversize charges still apply unless otherwise notes and can only be shipped to the lower 48 States.Same Day Shipping (on most parts) if you order by 5PM EST on a business day.Now, this extremely popular and highly rated fluid here on the site will work with any manual transmission in your Mustang, but is not advised for automatic transmissions or rear ends. Your price point per quart will be around 15 bucks, while the install will vary depending on your car, but let's call it one out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter, with a little bit more on that topic later in the video. So, T5, T45, 3650, 6060, T56 or MT82, it doesn't matter, the Royal Purple Synchromax we are talking about here today will be for you. Now, the Synchromax is a synthetic transmission fluid which is designed to improve shifting and reduce gear noise through Royal Purple's proprietary Synerlec technology. And this is one of those products where, guys, I really encourage you to check out or read up on some of the 100 plus, 5 star reviews on the site, because, listen, I can sit here and tell you what's in this stuff all day long and why it's so great, but it's always better to hear from different Mustang owners out there who've actually filled their transmission up with this stuff and it gets them real-world feedback. But either way let's get back to the Synchromax here. And aside from the smoother and quieter operation, Royal Purple also states that their additives in this Synchromax will help protect some of the softer metals typically found in manual transmissions, and more specifically, their synchronizers.
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Also worth noting is that cold weather owners might be drawn to this fluid a little bit better because of the lower operating temperature, which will help eliminate some of that notchiness on some of the colder mornings. Now, the amount of fluid needed will differ from trans to trans, but you're gonna be looking at three to four quarts here depending on your setup, and for that I would recommend to check out your owner's manual at the end of the day as it does differ a bit to bit from transmission. Now, as far as additives are concerned, well, that's another area that will differ from setup to setup. And I will say, most cars will be fine just using the fluid itself here, but again, check your manual, see if one is needed just to be on the safe side. Now, filling the trans can be done a few different ways, but I will say that using some sort of pump, whether it be vacuum or handheld, will certainly make your life easier compared to just dumping it in using some crazy long funnel. Either way, guys, let's call it one out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter here, and about 30 minutes to an hour of your time to get the old fluid drained and the new fluid in place in your transmission. So, wrapping up this short and sweet video, if you're looking for a very popular fluid to fill the manual transmission in your '79 and newer Mustang, then check out a few quarts of the old Synchromax here from Royal Purple, right here at americanmuscle.com.Subscribe to our YouTube Channel If you have a new Mustang or transmission, changing your fluid to Synchromax can keep your transmission working better - both now and later. Protects Internal Components.Ask your question! The site offers helpful guidance that helps inform purchasing decisions and with product installation. I would recommend AM to anyone who likes modified Mustangs. My uncles took me to different local car shows where I got to see all the older muscle cars.
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I loved looking at all the cars trying to figure out what it was and I always found that my favorite one was the mustang. My first car was 2007 Ford F150, I loved. We use cookies and similar technology to enhance your experience by recognizing yourTo learn more about cookies. Truck freight and oversize charges still apply unless otherwise notes and can only be shipped to the lower 48 States.Same Day Shipping (on most parts) if you order by 5PM EST on a business day.Please try again later. It also provides protection against rust and corrosion. This automatic transmission fluid is dyed red for ease of leak detection.Ask your question! Nice selection of items for every section of my car. I can proudly say that every single one of my family members has owned a mustang at one point or another. Growing up I was either camping, at the farm, or at the racetrack. I’ve always been around some sort of mustang and have learned that. We use cookies and similar technology to enhance your experience by recognizing yourTo learn more about cookies. It includes a 5th gear that functions as an overdrive gear, light-weight aluminum housings, a synchromesh reverse gear, and synchromeshed helical cut forward gears.The 2007 Mustang GT owner's manual specified the use of 3.0 L of non-synthetic Mercon ATF in the 3650, while the 2008 Mustang GT owner's manual now specifies the use of 3.0 L of Mercon-V ATF in the 3650.NB: Tremec service manual also specifies Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF ( Tremec specification ET-M-99 ) in addition to Dexron III.CS1 maint: archived copy as title ( link ) CS1 maint: archived copy as title ( link ) CS1 maint: archived copy as title ( link ) By using this site, you agree to the Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. One of the basic maintenance items on an older vehicle is to make sure to flush transmission fluid. Fortunately, 99-04 Mustang transmission fluid changes are very easy, especially on a manual transmission like this one.
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I’m personally not comfortable getting under a car on four jack stands, especially since my garage is sloped. Instead, I like to put the front tires on rhino ramps or other wheel ramps and put the rear end on jack stands, as shown. This lets me adjust the height of the rear to get the car level as well, which is important for this job. Here’s a view from the passenger side showing where to look. It’s just behind the exhaust pipe. Before doing anything, you want to remove the fill plug. In the event that it’s too stuck to remove, you can still drive the car on the old transmission fluid. If you pull the drain plug first and can’t get the fill plug off, you’re in trouble. Place the oil drain pan under the transmission and remove the fill plug. The old transmission fluid should come pouring out. Once it’s drained, go ahead and reinstall the drain plug. Then, you can attach your fluid pump to the first bottle of Mobil-1 ATF. You can begin pumping fluid into the transmission. Regarding capacity, there are two options. The manual recommends 4.0 quarts for my car, which should be filling it until fluid comes out of the fill hole. I chose to do the latter, and I haven’t had any problems, for whatever that’s worth. I was hoping that it would help my car slide into gear more easily, but so far this doesn’t appear to be the case. Still, it’s worth a shot, as old transmission fluid can gum up syncros and cause excessive wear and other problems. This should also work on Mustang transmissions, although I’m both afraid of getting oil in the cabin and too lazy to do this personally. I want to change the Please refer to CarGurus Terms of Use. Content will be removed if CarGurus becomes aware that it violates our policies. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. I have a 2002 Mustang GT in excellent shape (67K miles) and don't want to see it destroyed by misinformation.
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It doesn't make sense to me that Automatic Transmission Fluid, which has hydraulic properties, is going to be as effective as 75W90 transmission lube in lubricating the high pressure points of a manual transmission. It may flow well through the transmission, but it seems that exactly because of that lower viscosity it would not be as effective at lubricating those high pressure points, which could result in metal friction against metal (not a good thing). Does anyone have any solid information that could address my concerns. Please email me, if possible. Thanks. Tremec recommends GM Syncromesh, which is automatic transmission fluid. So. Automatic transmission fluid is the proper fluid to fill yours with. There's a lot of debate on what works best, but the general consensus is that 3.2 quarts of Synchromesh is the preferred fluid. If you try to put 75W90 in your Tremec 3650, you won't be able to shift it. I have a 2002 Mustang GT in excellent shape (67K miles) and don't want to see it destroyed by misinformation. Please email me, if possible. Thanks.It shifts perfect and their is no notchy feeling what so ever. What high pressure points are you really talking about in a TR3650 anyways. It's a manual. And like most manuals its just one great big oil bath in there. Viscosity itself does not tell you how well an oil will stick and protect your parts. And in fact to much viscosity, like your 75W90, will make it really hard if not impossible to shift. I am an AMSOIL dealer and I have to say that under AMSOIL's Limeted warranty that if it is proven that a recommended oil for your vehicle from AMSOIL is the factor in which your part is destroyed, AMSOIL will replace it. If you need to order anything shoot or need advice on any AMSOIL product, just shoot me a PM. I give great discounts and ship direct to you. It shifts perfect and their is no notchy feeling what so ever. I give great discounts and ship direct to you.

I was finally able to get the Ford part number for the transmission fluid (yes, fluid not lube) for my car (5-speed manual). The part number is XT-2-QSM. While this is the part number for a Motorcraft Synthetic Mercon Transmission Fluid, it is not the same as the one for Mercon V (which is XT-5-QM, not synthetic). The proper transmission fluid must abide by two Ford specifications - Mercon and ESR-M2C163-A2. Thanks everyone for the help. Regards. I don't care if you USED to be one of the owners here, that information is 100 incorrect and should not be followed. The manufacturer of the transmission that's in your car recommends Synchromesh over MERCON V. Of course Ford is going to recommed MERCON, it's their brand. I, as well as 90 of T3650 owners that are actually happy with the way their transmissions shift finally quit listening to people like GTRaptor and listened to the techs at Tremec and are much happier about it. People have had good luck with the AMSOIL as well. You found that, but you obviously didn't find the TSB that changed the fluid specs from Ford to 3.2 quarts of MERCON-V synthetic, not MERCON. And then Tremec put out their own bulletin on the T3650 that recommends 3.2q of Synchromesh. I always recommend RedlineMTF or Synchromesh. I run Synchromesh in my car, and noone is harder on their transmission than I am. I have no 1-2 or 2-3 grind, but have a hard time finding reverse and at speed it is sometimes hard to get into 3rd from 2nd. I just bought the car and don't know what fluid is in the trans, so I'm looking for the right type I have no 1-2 or 2-3 grind, but have a hard time finding reverse and at speed it is sometimes hard to get into 3rd from 2nd. I just bought the car and don't know what fluid is in the trans, so I'm looking for the right typeThose are only in Automatics. I've got 108k on the stock transmission, and it gets hell every time I drive it. I receive daily questions and comments on aftermarket transmission fluids.

For every person that tells me that Product X is the best fluid to run in my transmissions, I get the same number of individuals that tell me Product X is the worst fluid you can put into my transmissions. I can only give you our recommendations for my product line. Alternative fluids can be G.M. Synchromesh, G.M. part number 12345349, (semi-synthetic), or Mobil 1 ATF, (full synthetic). If you have any further questions, please feel free to contact me. I have run the Synchromesh with great results. It was an immediate difference in my car. I had to call Amsoil because it was not listed on their site and the tech guy couldn’t even find sulfur in the ingredients of the “Red Label” ATF. And that it is a direct replacement for Ford’s recommended fluid(s) and meets all warranty and other requirements. The guys at Liberty do suggest running “Original Formula” GM Syncromesh (get at dealer) though. They have had the best performance with that. Let the controversy continue.:winks I had to call Amsoil because it was not listed on their site and the tech guy couldn’t even find sulfur in the ingredients of the “Red Label” ATF. Let the controversy continue.:winks As for problems shifting from 2nd to 3rd, change your shifter to a short throw. I run syncromesh that I buy from a chevy parts counter, and a MGW shifter. No problems since I had the car, stop asking Ford for advice on your tremec trans. Come join the discussion about performance, builds, modifications, reviews, engine swaps, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more. This fluid not only lubricates the moving parts of the transmission, it also acts as a coolant, protecting the transmission against fatal heat. Transmission fluid for Mustangs should be checked at least every six months or 6,000 miles. Step 1 Park the vehicle on a level surface. Apply the parking brake. Step 2 Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature.

Step 3 Shift the gear selector lever through all of the gears while maintaining pressure on the brake pedal. Step 5 Wipe away all dirt and debris from the top of the transmission dipstick, using a clean rag. Pull the transmission dipstick from its tube. On a Mustang, the transmission dipstick is located on the passenger side of the engine, between the engine and the transmission. The top of the dipstick will be curled into a circle. Step 6 Locate the transmission fluid level marks towards the tip of the dipstick. Take care not to overfill the transmission. Items you will need Clean rag About the Author This article was written by the It Still Works team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information. To submit your questions or ideas, or to simply learn more about It Still Works, contact us. More Articles What Is the Horsepower of a Chevy 6.0. How to Check the Transmission Fluid On. How to Reset the Computer on an Audi. How to Replace a TCC Solenoid on a 2000. How to Replace a Transmission Filter in.